UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A sport companion to big brother Spizz Energy. Reasonable climbing with a demanding and fingery finish. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 2000s 2005.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
tintinandpip 10 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Did Spizz energy a million years ago, enjoyed this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did Spizz energy a million years ago, enjoyed this.
Somerset swede basher 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Consultation prize for another failed session on Aberration.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Consultation prize for another failed session on Aberration.
thrutch 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Removed loose hold on second overlap. Doesn't change the grade but removes accident potential.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Removed loose hold on second overlap. Doesn't change the grade but removes accident potential.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Gold

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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