UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

Rockfax Description
One of the great routes of Chee Dale which has absorbing climbing and gear when you need it but has lost holds and now has a very hard crux near the top. Climb up past a bolt and peg to a good flake. Make a tenuous traverse down and left into the groove (bolt and a rest). Climb this to a bolt up right. Pass the peg above with great difficulty to gain the awkward finishing groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the great routes of Chee Dale which has absorbing climbing and gear when you need it but has lost holds and now has a very hard crux near the top. Climb up past a bolt and peg to a good flake. Make a tenuous traverse down and left into the groove (bolt and a rest). Climb this to a bolt up right. Pass the peg above with great difficulty to gain the awkward finishing groove.

FA. Ron Fawcett 1980.

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Keeping the Ratio High

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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