105m, 5 pitches. A long combination of pitches which takes in the best bits of Aplomb and Sirplum after a poor start on the wall and grassy ledges left of the big bulging arete. A more sensible way of doing this route is to just start up the Stalk and finish up Aplomb/Sirplum combination which is actually just Aplomb with its variation finish.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the wall left of the arete to a ledge, then continue up the wall above trending right to a grassy ledge in a bay.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse the break rightwards around the corner into The Stalk and follow this to the top of the corner and belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Traverse right above the roof to belay in the corner. Aplomb pitch 2.
4) 5a, 30m. Step down and hand-traverse the break in a wild position to belay on a pedestal. Aplomb pitch 3.
5) 5a, 20m. Move left of great holds to a groove then climb to the top. Sirplum half of pitch 2.


CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Traverses of trady radness


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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Flying Buttress Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)
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