UKC

39m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Spectacular and bold climbing up the impressive nose and headwall in the centre of the crag. Start in the corner below the right-hand side of a pinnacle known as 'The Wizard's Hat'.

1) 5b, 27m. Move up to the crack on the right side of the pinnacle and climb to its top. Follow ledges rightwards to a bolt, and move up to a hand-ledge directly above it. Mantle onto the ledge and step out toward the arete before moving up to the overhang and good wires. Climb the wall and crack on the left side of the arete to a stance. Bolts and nut belay.
2) 5c, 12m. Move up to the overhang above the stance and pull over and finish direct - very bold. © Rockfax

FA. High Noon. Toni Carver, Richard Grose (1pt) 16.4.1967,FFA. High Noon. Ken Palmer 8.3.1986,FA. (Mauritius) Ken Palmer 1989 16/Apr/1967.

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User Date Notes
Ellis Bird 21 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt has since long gone and the natural pro is in very poor rock which is unlikely to hold a fall. There is one other rusty bolt which is very concerning considering the remains of the previous one. Could be an amazing route if re-bolted but feels more like E5 in its current state.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt has since long gone and the natural pro is in very poor rock which is unlikely to hold a fall. There is one other rusty bolt which is very concerning considering the remains of the previous one. Could be an amazing route if re-bolted but feels more like E5 in its current state.
Ellis Bird 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt has since long gone and the natural pro is in very poor rock which is unlikely to hold a fall. There is one other rusty bolt which is very concerning considering the remains of the previous one. Could be an amazing route if re-bolted but feels more like E5 in its current state.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt has since long gone and the natural pro is in very poor rock which is unlikely to hold a fall. There is one other rusty bolt which is very concerning considering the remains of the previous one. Could be an amazing route if re-bolted but feels more like E5 in its current state.

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High E5
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High 5b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
America

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Carn Gowla)

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