UKC

39m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Spectacular and bold climbing up the impressive nose and headwall in the centre of the crag. Start in the corner below the right-hand side of a pinnacle known as 'The Wizard's Hat'.
1) 5b, 27m. Move up to the crack on the right side of the pinnacle and climb to its top. Follow ledges rightwards to a bolt, and move up to a hand-ledge directly above it. Mantle onto the ledge and step out toward the arete before moving up to the overhang and good wires. Climb the wall and crack on the left side of the arete to a stance. Bolts and nut belay.
2) 6a, 12m. Move out right onto the exposed hanging groove and climb it, bolts, to its end, bolt, where some fingery moves lead directly to the top. The original finish went direct at E4 6a but the gear is now old. © Rockfax

FA. High Noon. Toni Carver, Richard Grose (1pt) 16.4.1967,FFA. High Noon. Ken Palmer 8.3.1986,FA. (Mauritius) Ken Palmer 1989 16/Apr/1967.

Ticklists

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User Date Notes
Ellis Bird 21 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt has since long gone and the natural pro is in very poor rock which is unlikely to hold a fall. There is one other rusty bolt which is very concerning considering the remains of the previous one. Could be an amazing route if re-bolted but feels more like E5 in its current state.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt has since long gone and the natural pro is in very poor rock which is unlikely to hold a fall. There is one other rusty bolt which is very concerning considering the remains of the previous one. Could be an amazing route if re-bolted but feels more like E5 in its current state.
Ellis Bird 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt has since long gone and the natural pro is in very poor rock which is unlikely to hold a fall. There is one other rusty bolt which is very concerning considering the remains of the previous one. Could be an amazing route if re-bolted but feels more like E5 in its current state.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt has since long gone and the natural pro is in very poor rock which is unlikely to hold a fall. There is one other rusty bolt which is very concerning considering the remains of the previous one. Could be an amazing route if re-bolted but feels more like E5 in its current state.

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Sunny Corner Lane

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Carn Barra)
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