Spectacular and bold climbing up the impressive nose and headwall in the centre of the crag. Start in the corner below the right-hand side of a pinnacle known as 'The Wizard's Hat'.
1) 5b, 27m. Move up to the crack on the right side of the pinnacle and climb to its top. Follow ledges rightwards to a bolt, and move up to a hand-ledge directly above it. Mantle onto the ledge and step out toward the arete before moving up to the overhang and good wires. Climb the wall and crack on the left side of the arete to a stance. Bolts and nut belay.
2) 5c, 12m. Move up to the overhang above the stance and pull over and finish direct - very bold. © Rockfax
FA. High Noon. Toni Carver, Richard Grose (1pt) 16.4.1967,FFA. High Noon. Ken Palmer 8.3.1986,FA. (Mauritius) Ken Palmer 1989 16/Apr/1967.
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