Altitude 58m a.s.l
Fingery, sketchy finish of Smoke Gets in Your Eyes. E3 6a, Chudleigh © Brian H
High-quality, compact limestone with many fine routes up to 45 m which are generally well-protected. Comprises a set of buttresses and walls rising out of woodland, with fine situation and aspect higher up. Quality routes exist at all grades - stars and no. of ascents in the climbs list below indicate the classics. A popular crag with the locals, so starred routes generally stay in suitable condition for on-sight attempts. Some polish will be encountered on the more popular mid. and lower grade climbs, but in many cases this doesn't spoil the climbing. Beware, the grading can feel a bit mean on many routes (i.e. sandbag alert...) - no harm in dropping a grade or two on a first visit to get the feel of the climbing.
Approaching from either north or south on the A38, take the S exit for Chudleigh and follow the signs towards the town centre for about 0.6 km. Turn right into Rock Lane. After an S bend, limited parking is available on the RHS of the lane ahead. Parking spaces on the next corner have been requisitioned by the adjacent vehicle repair business and the best spots are frequently occupied by smelly refuse trucks with oil leaks. On the corner is a footpath entry with a stone pillar (complete with disclaimer notice) and a wrought-iron kissing gate, follow the path alongside a wall to a point where it splits. Take the higher RH track which contours a slope then rises to reveal a shallow quarry bay on the RHS, this is the Far Eastern Area of Chudleigh North (see separate crag pages and specific access instructions). Bear left and follow the track to an outcrop and rock step at the Eeny, Meeny, Miney, Mo area. A larger rock step leads to Pixies Cave and the first buttress of the South Face proper (Gagool buttress).
Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Alexander Clifford for permission prior to using the site:
Tel: 01626 852179
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
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