Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
A good pitch but, like others nearby, can be a bit vegetated. Start up Brer Rabbit and at the roof-capped corner go right. Once clear of the roof, climb the wall on its left to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| pweh | 8 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Much better than the HS variation. Lovely, wandering moves that make it feel longer than it actually is. Bit grassy in places but far less polished than the other severes here | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Much better than the HS variation. Lovely, wandering moves that make it feel longer than it actually is. Bit grassy in places but far less polished than the other severes here |
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| Mike Roberts | 7 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The meter long horizontal spike of rock near the top of this climb has now been removed, it was lowered to the ground so as to not damage the climb. Whilst the climb is now safer than it was, caution and common sense is still required near the top, the climb is best climbed up the corner in its entirety, to the left there are still some earthy ledges with possibility of further loose rock. The big block (the final overhang of the corner) is not an integral part of the cliff however seems solid at the moment, however what it is sitting on needs to not be pulled out. Safe happy climbing! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The meter long horizontal spike of rock near the top of this climb has now been removed, it was lowered to the ground so as to not damage the climb. Whilst the climb is now safer than it was, caution and common sense is still required near the top, the climb is best climbed up the corner in its entirety, to the left there are still some earthy ledges with possibility of further loose rock. The big block (the final overhang of the corner) is not an integral part of the cliff however seems solid at the moment, however what it is sitting on needs to not be pulled out. Safe happy climbing! |
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| petecallaghan | 15 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Near the top of this route is a 1m spike which has become less attached to the face. It is rotating horizontally outwards and shows signs of recent movements. On inspection on 14/4/2020 it resisted removal, but it is detached. Loose vegetation and earth around it shows that it is recently mobile. Do not pull on it. If it falls it will hit the main access path below. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Near the top of this route is a 1m spike which has become less attached to the face. It is rotating horizontally outwards and shows signs of recent movements. On inspection on 14/4/2020 it resisted removal, but it is detached. Loose vegetation and earth around it shows that it is recently mobile. Do not pull on it. If it falls it will hit the main access path below. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Shangri-La
Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)