Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
A direct line that sees limited traffic, but gives continuously good climbing. Start at a ground level zig-zag crack.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb the zig-zag crack, and move up onto a ledge on the right below a thin left-slanting crack. Climb the crack to a break and continue up the slim groove above to a good ledge and belay below the corner of Scar.
2) 5c, 22m. Make a rising traverse leftwards to reach a short corner on the right side of a block overhang. Move up the corner to gain a ledge above the block overhang. Climb up the short wall to the rightward leading break above and follow this strenuously right to a good incut jug. Pull up to another good hold and less steep ground. Finish up the broken corner above. © Rockfax
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Pressure Drop
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Spekes Mill Mouth and Brownspear Point)