UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
17m.

Rockfax Description
Similar to Arete Butler, again with a tough start. Join and finish as for Arete Butler. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A hard start leads to the diagonal break and a great pocket out left. Climb more easily onto the ledge and move right to good sandstone slopers and crimps. Move up then left to positive holds, the large ledge, and a couple of quick pulls to gain the top.

FA. Tom Rainbow 2014.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chriscan'tclimb 16 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Does it come with people at the crag telling you what to vote as well?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Does it come with people at the crag telling you what to vote as well?
Sambo-C 9 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with Ale and crew. Vote it low 7a if your a boulderer, mid if your not.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with Ale and crew. Vote it low 7a if your a boulderer, mid if your not.

Logged Ascents

86 users have logged this

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Ground Up
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cod Tympani

Grade: 7a S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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