Restricted Access

Early in the nesting season please be aware that there could be nesting ravens on unrestricted cliffs and if spotted please chose another route.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

New Restrictions are as followed, these have been agreed with the RSPB and members of the BMC. Full restrictions are in place from the 1st of Febuary until the 31st July on the following crags:

Back of bay between Trwyn y Ffosle and Trwyn Melyn

Fisherman’s Zawn    OS Ref 287241

Chinatown Zawn OS Ref 287239

Trwyn y Fulfran Slabs  OS Ref 287238

Black Bay OS Ref 288237

Through Cave Area OS Ref 291235

Multi Storey Wall OS Ref 294232

Mur y Môr OS Ref 294232

Trwyn Cilan Zawn OS Ref 294230 

Crystal Zawn SH 29329 

Vatican Zawn  OS Ref 295231


There are some Areas that have split restrictions. 

Paitsh South Bay - No Restrictions to the left of the Abseil Line, but restrictions as above up to and including Springboard ridge. 

Zawn One - No Restrictions above the boulder slope then restricted as above for all climbs below sloping terrace. 


There are short restrictions from the 1st of April, to June 30th at the following locations. 

Paitsh North Bay - No restrictions to Hornblower Spur then a short restriction. 








100m, 5 pitches. An impressive route with hard free and artificial climbing. Tackles the wall right of Vulture and the massive roof above, the aid bolts need replacing so until someone does the climb remains obsolete. However it is one of the most adventurous routes south of the scottish border.

K Myhill, Al Evans (alt leads) plus K Jones and C Boulton Nov/1971.


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Logged Ascents

There are no ascents logged for this climb.

Guidebooks for Cilan Head

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High XS
Mid XS
Low XS
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
The Great Crack Of Porth Oer

Grade: XS 5b ***
(Porth Iago)

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