Restricted Access

Early in the nesting season please be aware that there could be nesting ravens on unrestricted cliffs and if spotted please chose another route.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

New Restrictions are as followed, these have been agreed with the RSPB and members of the BMC. Full restrictions are in place from the 1st of Febuary until the 31st July on the following crags:

Back of bay between Trwyn y Ffosle and Trwyn Melyn

Fisherman’s Zawn    OS Ref 287241

Chinatown Zawn OS Ref 287239

Trwyn y Fulfran Slabs  OS Ref 287238

Black Bay OS Ref 288237

Through Cave Area OS Ref 291235

Multi Storey Wall OS Ref 294232

Mur y Môr OS Ref 294232

Trwyn Cilan Zawn OS Ref 294230 

Crystal Zawn SH 29329 

Vatican Zawn  OS Ref 295231


There are some Areas that have split restrictions. 

Paitsh South Bay - No Restrictions to the left of the Abseil Line, but restrictions as above up to and including Springboard ridge. 

Zawn One - No Restrictions above the boulder slope then restricted as above for all climbs below sloping terrace. 


There are short restrictions from the 1st of April, to June 30th at the following locations. 

Paitsh North Bay - No restrictions to Hornblower Spur then a short restriction. 








100m, 4 pitches. 5b. 5c. 6a. 6a. A direct after the first pitch of Vulture, taking in some very impressive ground higher up.

Pat Littlejohn, N White 22/Nov/1988.


100 or so good E6s - aye Caff


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cilan Head

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Bryn y Dyfrgi)

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