Rockfax Description
A fantastic route for those wishing to improve their climbing techniques and prepare for the leap to grade V. The fine climbing is the upper corner more than compensates for the loose rock of the lower section. Many lines are possible on the lower section to the halfway ledge, with some equipped belays. A grand yet tranquil setting.
Start the route about 40m left of the top of the scree cone, on a small ledge, just to the left of a gully.
1) III, 55m. Climb easy rocks leftwards onto a spur between two gullies which leads to a ledge. Belay on the left.
2) III, 40m. Climb vertically, keeping slightly left moving towards the large corner in the face, overcoming loose but featured faces to reach a spike belay on one of the ledges.
3) III, 50m. Climb direct to a crack, following the same line as the previous pitches, to reach a belay below a chimney.
4) III+, 50m. Climb vertically to the left of the black/yellow rocks which form the edge of the corner to reach a large ledge immediately left of a small yellow tower just above.
5) I, 55m. Follow the half-height ledge rightwards below the overhangs. Move around an arete and continue to below a niche, around 15m before the back of the large upper corner.
6) IV+, 30m. Climb a slight overhang to the niche below the overhangs above, then exit right via an overhanging crack. Climb the featured rock, moving diagonally right for 10m to reach the back of the corner and a belay.
7) IV+, 45m. Climb rightwards then follow a crack to the left of the corner. Follow the corner to a good stance on a small ledge.
8) IV, 45m. Continue on the left wall of the corner on featured rock to reach a shallow niche, 20m below the rocky yellow-grey pillar which splits the corner.
9) IV+, 50m. Climb the main corner-crack as far as the pillar that divides it. From here either fork is possible, with overhanging but juggy moves. The climbing becomes easier as the cracks move left - continue following the corner to a small ledge with a belay.
10) IV, 50m. Continue in the corner to a small ledge with a thread after 20m (possible belay) then climb the featured wall to the left of the corner on excellent compact rock. Exit onto the summit ridge around 10m left of the top of the corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 7. DON'T go rightwards, climb left hand corner.

Consiglio, dall'Oglio, Micarelli 02/Aug/1954.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip

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