7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular route that predominantly stays just right of the west ridge proper. It is recommended to start early to avoid the crowds. The climb is suffering from polish in places because of its popularity.
Start beneath a slightly vegetated leftwards trending gully to the right of the main arete.
1) III+, 25m. Climb the leftward trending gully to a large ledge.
2) I, 20m. Walk right along the ledge and belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
3) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney belaying on the left at the top.
4) I, 15m. Walk right again and belay under a steep crack.
5) IV, 40m. Climb that crack which is easier than it first appears until you find yourself on the arete again.
6) IV+, 20m. Climb 2m on the left side of the arete before crossing back over onto the right and entering a corner. Climb this until you reach easier ground and a belay at the top.
7) Easy ground now leads to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Straight forward climbing. 160m. 7 pitches

Steger, Holzner 30 Jun 1928

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

HP9 28/Sep/16 AltLd

L pitch 3 and 6. Very nice route with fantastic (but polished) 6th pitch traverse onto the arete. Problems finding the start using the rock fax book. Not an accurate description - it starts much further up the gully than the diagram suggests.

with Mark Hayes
Chris Hurlock 16/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Longest trad climb to date 25 min walk in 4 hours up 40min abseil down.

with Jim Oakley
tomB 02/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Juliette
Juliette Baker 02/Sep/16 2nd
barrington1978 22/Aug/16 -
tobydunford 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Simon Thursz
Win-yei 16/Aug/16 AltLd
with Rob
Rob Morgan 16/Aug/16 AltLd

First Dolomites climb. Did the start wrong but got on route for pitch 2.

with Win-yei
Hidden 11/Aug/16 Lead
will_lake 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S

I lead everything. Nice move on the final pitch coming round the arete

with Andy (Lake District)
nick244 03/Aug/16 AltLd

As four pitches. Led P2, and P3 after the 'traverse' across the ledge. Early start, so we were first on the route. Only saw two others on the route, a couple of friendly German climbers who caught us on the last pitch. Great day, first big trad multipitch, and enjoyed it all. The third and fourth pitches in particular were great. The first couple of pitches were a bit more scrappy, but it all added to the experience. Didn't find polish an issue at all

with Smeagol
Smeagol 03/Aug/16 AltLd
with nick244
Richardlake 19/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Description in the rockfax book is off for the first two pitches. The first pitch is a very long scramble or easy lead. Second traverse is a lot shorter than 20 metres. Also couldnt find the bolt / fixed belay at the end of pitch two, only an old peg in the crack. So much loose rock on those first two 'pitches'...

will_lake 19/Jul/16 AltLd dnf
james1978 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Matt1234 03/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
katiet 01/Sep/15 AltLd
Steve Shorrock 01/Sep/15 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz 01/Sep/15 Lead

The description in the Rockfax guide for the start of the climb is wrong. Instead: 1) 50m Climb & scramble (scree) up the leftward trending gully to a notch in the ridge. 2) III+ 45m From the notch climb up the ridge to a large ledge and then walk right along this to belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.

with Clare
Hidden 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
PPP 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Brian
Hidden 27/Aug/15 AltLd
Sankey 11/Aug/15 Lead
with Andy E
rockafunked ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 5 and 6. Cruxes well protected by pegs, supplemented by placing pro. Careful if abseiling - our ropes got stuck on pitch 5.

Hidden 24/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/15 Lead
91dave 24/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Gavdee1 06/Jul/15 Lead

First pitch only due to overcrowding on route..........

with Tony Johnson
cpforbes ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
duncana 30/Jun/15 AltLd

Doing the traverse of three towners. Long day, climbing never too hard, but enjoyable. Each tower is bigger than the previous! Tricky to find descent between 1st and 2nd towers.

with Pippa Archer
alooker ?/Jun/15 Lead
Alex Eperon 08/Sep/14 AltLd
centurion05 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

A shame that the new awesome Rockfax guide is incorrect for the first pitch. You can climb up the gully, but it is no where near 25m long. From a safe point at the bottom of the gully you are looking at about 50-60m of loose choss. A more amenable route is to climb the easy ground to the left of the pinnacle, around the back and drop into the top of the gully. This is very polished also leading me to think I wasn't the first to do this. Nice enough route, top pitch is fun. Very safe.

with Yvonne
Giles Eperon 08/Sep/14 Lead
eve29 08/Sep/14 2nd
with Andy
Charlie Eperon 08/Sep/14 2nd
Alessandro Tentori 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

somebody drilled a spit into the crux, which is now considerably easier despite the polish

with Luca Gasparini
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Marq 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with James Rowe, James Pearson
Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
jezb1 23/Jul/12 AltLd

Too polished to be as enjoyable as it should have been. Polish ruined it for me.

The Ivanator 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Polished in places, but a worthwhile outing, good crux pitch.

with Jez
Eoinparker 17/Jul/12 2nd dnf

Got to pitch four then abseiled off

Melanie Parkin 17/Jul/12 2nd dnf
John Nuttall 11/Jul/12 AltLd
with Andy H
timofy 20/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jun/12 AltLd
guy757 16/Sep/11 Lead
onlyfoddington 13/Sep/11 2nd O/S

polished last pitch made things more tricky

stevorobs3 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with andy howell, David Brock, Giovanni Milandri
Hotcake ?/Sep/11 AltLd

Lead 4 pitches. Climbing with packs. UIAA Gr 4 but felt difficult. Well protected.

with Snowy
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Griff87 24/Aug/11 -
Mike-W-99 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

First on it, no queues!

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 06/Jul/11 AltLd

Nice climbing, first on the route due to getting out of bed early! Led odd pitches

with Mike
HIGHTOWER 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Danny Mickers
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Rampikino 19/Aug/10 Lead

Great fun on increasingly awkward rock.

with Cat
zach.stone 03/Aug/10 AltLd O/S


theotherpetehill 03/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
JLS 13/Jul/10 AltLd dog

Point of aid at last pitch crux

with Jacqui
EmileCilliers 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 28/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Welsh Tom, Sian
SianR 28/Jun/10 2nd
with Jonnie & Welsh Tom
simon kimber 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hanski 18/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Euan Strachan ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Latimer 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Ben1983 31/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

1.5 hrs

Elsier ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Stuart
paul79 ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
jcj ??/2008 -
jcj ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/07 AltLd
edmund94 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
edmund94 09/Jun/07 Lead dnf

Turned back due to weather.

Tarquin ??/2007 AltLd
FrankW 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Joe
John HW ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Cath
Hidden ??/2005 -
Bob M ?/Jul/04 -
akhughes ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
Hidden 24/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/03 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
John HW ?/May/02 Lead O/S


with Stuart Mackenzie, Colin Masson
auld al ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ?/Aug/01 AltLd rpt
with chris praxmarer
cem 27/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
with Miles Butteriss
EllieWoods ?/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Si
Hidden ?/May/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/99 AltLd
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Andy Say 12/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/92 AltLd
babymoac 23/Sep/91 AltLd
with Rich Reeder
tjekel ??/1987 -
Falko 01/Aug/73 Lead O/S
with TRE
Falko 01/Aug/73 Lead O/S
with TRE
eroica64 ?/Jul/71 AltLd
with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett
Seymore Butt ??/1966 -
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High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set