7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular route that predominantly stays just right of the west ridge proper. It is recommended to start early to avoid the crowds. The climb is suffering from polish in places because of its popularity.
Start beneath a slightly vegetated leftwards trending gully to the right of the main arete.
1) III+, 25m. Climb the leftward trending gully to a large ledge.
2) I, 20m. Walk right along the ledge and belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
3) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney belaying on the left at the top.
4) I, 15m. Walk right again and belay under a steep crack.
5) IV, 40m. Climb that crack which is easier than it first appears until you find yourself on the arete again.
6) IV+, 20m. Climb 2m on the left side of the arete before crossing back over onto the right and entering a corner. Climb this until you reach easier ground and a belay at the top.
7) Easy ground now leads to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Straight forward climbing. 160m. 7 pitches

Steger, Holzner 30 Jun 1928

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

Feedback

UserDateNotes
james.slater 12 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Would be far better to scramble up to the notch and belay in the slot with a silver peg. Then run the rest of the first pitch (from rock fax) into the first traverse pitch and belay under the chimney.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would be far better to scramble up to the notch and belay in the slot with a silver peg. Then run the rest of the first pitch (from rock fax) into the first traverse pitch and belay under the chimney.
Maarten2 27 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Apparently, one can just scramble to the notch between the Locomotive and the First Tower, bypassing the chossy 1st pitch, shown on the RockFax photo..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Apparently, one can just scramble to the notch between the Locomotive and the First Tower, bypassing the chossy 1st pitch, shown on the RockFax photo..
Tom Milne 10 Jul Show βeta
βeta: This route has a slightly confusing chossy start, depending on which guidebook you use, but the three IV pitches are well worth the effort. Beware of polished holds, especially in the chimney which can be quite slippery.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route has a slightly confusing chossy start, depending on which guidebook you use, but the three IV pitches are well worth the effort. Beware of polished holds, especially in the chimney which can be quite slippery.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Martin Bennett 21 Sep - I don't know why Rockfax photo topo shows it starting way below the notch connecting Tower 1 and the "Locomotive" tower when Classic Dolonite Climbs and the Italian guude book Arrampicare im Val Gardena correctly show the start there. Waste of tine scrambling up scree covered ledges and subsequent loss of time making sense of it.
with AlanB
I don't know why Rockfax photo topo shows it starting way below the notch connecting Tower 1 and the "Locomotive" tower when Classic Dolonite Climbs and the Italian guude book Arrampicare im Val Gardena correctly show the start there. Waste of tine scrambling up scree covered ledges and subsequent loss of time making sense of it.
with AlanB
Alessandro Tentori 14 Sep AltLd rpt
with Maurizio Ravera
with Maurizio Ravera
simonsclimbing 12 Sep AltLd O/S
james.slater 12 Sep AltLd O/S Led the three hardest pitches, gets better and better! Penultimate pitch is incredible, open climbing on big holds. Saw a marmot on the descent.
Led the three hardest pitches, gets better and better! Penultimate pitch is incredible, open climbing on big holds. Saw a marmot on the descent.
gurumed 5 Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Aug AltLd O/S
philgillespie 15 Aug Lead
Joshcastril 15 Aug AltLd O/S Very polished!
with Georgia
Very polished!
with Georgia
Thorclimbs 29 Jul 2nd
with mikecollins, Joey
with mikecollins, Joey
mikecollins 29 Jul Lead O/S Polish spoils the route. Top pitch is made considerably harder by the glass like rock constitution.
Polish spoils the route. Top pitch is made considerably harder by the glass like rock constitution.
levvis.m 12 Jul AltLd O/S Early start, scrambled up most of the gully before reaching a notch where we roped up. I led all pitches apart from the 4th and 5th. Really enjoyed the chimney and the arete pitches.
with Jamie Jameson Haston-Dougan
Early start, scrambled up most of the gully before reaching a notch where we roped up. I led all pitches apart from the 4th and 5th. Really enjoyed the chimney and the arete pitches.
with Jamie Jameson Haston-Dougan
Tom Milne 8 Jul AltLd O/S
with Richard Hunter, Matt Matera
with Richard Hunter, Matt Matera
Maarten2 1 Jul AltLd Great route, confusing start (RockFax is just wrong). Started to rain at last pitch (the very exciting IV+ crux), then the lighting, hail and rain arrived....
with Kitti
Great route, confusing start (RockFax is just wrong). Started to rain at last pitch (the very exciting IV+ crux), then the lighting, hail and rain arrived....
with Kitti
Olivier 30 Jun Lead O/S P1 starts way up the gully don t tie in too soon or you cant make the anchor with 60m Also you don t turn the corner at 2 m on p6 Well above that. Go up on face above belay until you reach piton then go right more like 6 m.
with Debbi
P1 starts way up the gully don t tie in too soon or you cant make the anchor with 60m Also you don t turn the corner at 2 m on p6 Well above that. Go up on face above belay until you reach piton then go right more like 6 m.
with Debbi
edwarddhmckee3 26 Jun AltLd O/S Climbed with dad, started 6.30am and were first ones at the top! Went slightly wrong and ended up leading a V+ and IV+ to the top! Great fun climb though
Climbed with dad, started 6.30am and were first ones at the top! Went slightly wrong and ended up leading a V+ and IV+ to the top! Great fun climb though
sblake 27 Sep, 2018 Lead
badgerjockey 25 Sep, 2018 AltLd Three fantastic pitches on this, especially the terrifyingly exposed turning of the arete on glassy feet. The scramble pitches are made up for by the fact that all the belays are very civilised. Loads of pegs and the odd ring belay. Rockfax guide a bit messed up as others have said, including needing to climb substantially more than 2m on P6 before moving around the arete. Walk off to the east via tower 2 is loose and unpleasant and involves 2 25m abs now re-equipped by the tat fairy. You’re welcome. Golden eagle seen from the bottom.
with k_k
Three fantastic pitches on this, especially the terrifyingly exposed turning of the arete on glassy feet. The scramble pitches are made up for by the fact that all the belays are very civilised. Loads of pegs and the odd ring belay. Rockfax guide a bit messed up as others have said, including needing to climb substantially more than 2m on P6 before moving around the arete. Walk off to the east via tower 2 is loose and unpleasant and involves 2 25m abs now re-equipped by the tat fairy. You’re welcome. Golden eagle seen from the bottom.
with k_k
PatrickBoothroyd 13 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S route finding problems on first 2 pitches, the last 3 pitches had top quality climbing, especially the chimney pitch
with NigelBoothroyd
route finding problems on first 2 pitches, the last 3 pitches had top quality climbing, especially the chimney pitch
with NigelBoothroyd
Hidden 8 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
ladislav 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Andy
with Andy
paaljt 3 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Polished in chimney in pitch 3. Roxfax book is confusing re start/ first pitch. Bailed after p3 due to very dark clouds/drizzle. two 25m abseils.
Polished in chimney in pitch 3. Roxfax book is confusing re start/ first pitch. Bailed after p3 due to very dark clouds/drizzle. two 25m abseils.
Hidden 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
9fingerjon 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Our intro to the Dolomites. Top 3 pitches are great.
Our intro to the Dolomites. Top 3 pitches are great.
Alex Thomson 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with jenpen
with jenpen
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd
SiRob 17 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with CM
with CM
Alessandro Tentori 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Tommaso Regesta
with Tommaso Regesta
Hidden 4 Jul, 2018 -
tdudley 22 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Great exposure on the last pitch - glad I wasn't leading! Lead the chimney pitch - good 360° climbing.
with Joe McCarthy
Great exposure on the last pitch - glad I wasn't leading! Lead the chimney pitch - good 360° climbing.
with Joe McCarthy
Steve Bartle 20 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S The top pitch was great but felt physically strenuous with bad rope drag (my fault)
The top pitch was great but felt physically strenuous with bad rope drag (my fault)
danieleaston 20 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Description to start route is wrong/ confusing in rockfax. Led 135&7. I found the wide chimney hard and the crack hard. P6 was fun to second but I thought the polish really made the whole route harder. Probably not on good form today.
Description to start route is wrong/ confusing in rockfax. Led 135&7. I found the wide chimney hard and the crack hard. P6 was fun to second but I thought the polish really made the whole route harder. Probably not on good form today.
partz 17 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome exposure on final pitch! Polished
Awesome exposure on final pitch! Polished
someonecalledtom 5 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf
betathief 16 Oct, 2017 AltLd
Jessicacrump 16 Oct, 2017 AltLd
A. Summerell 22 Sep, 2017 AltLd
CameronH 4 Sep, 2017 -
with James Kent
with James Kent
Smithy90 4 Sep, 2017 2nd
Ccmilree 31 Aug, 2017 Lead
justaddpowder 31 Aug, 2017 Lead Gets better the further you get up!
Gets better the further you get up!
Alessandro Tentori 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Tommaso Regesta
with Tommaso Regesta
jon_gill1 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Me p1,p2,p4,p6
with chris Lyness
Me p1,p2,p4,p6
with chris Lyness
Jon Gordon 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd
LanceSolf 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
S Lynch 30 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Christine Close 30 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Steve Lynch
with Steve Lynch
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf
Hidden 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
RocKalina ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Gawyllie 18 Jun, 2017 2nd
with john meechan, Alan Sewl
with john meechan, Alan Sewl
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
HP9 28 Sep, 2016 AltLd L pitch 3 and 6. Very nice route with fantastic (but polished) 6th pitch traverse onto the arete. Problems finding the start using the rock fax book. Not an accurate description - it starts much further up the gully than the diagram suggests.
with Mark Hayes
L pitch 3 and 6. Very nice route with fantastic (but polished) 6th pitch traverse onto the arete. Problems finding the start using the rock fax book. Not an accurate description - it starts much further up the gully than the diagram suggests.
with Mark Hayes
Chris Hurlock 16 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Longest trad climb to date 25 min walk in 4 hours up 40min abseil down.
with Jim Oakley
Longest trad climb to date 25 min walk in 4 hours up 40min abseil down.
with Jim Oakley
tomB 2 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Juliette
with Juliette
Juliette Baker 2 Sep, 2016 2nd
barrington1978 22 Aug, 2016 -
tobydunford 19 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Simon Thursz
with Simon Thursz
Rob Morgan 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd First Dolomites climb. Did the start wrong but got on route for pitch 2.
with Win-yei
First Dolomites climb. Did the start wrong but got on route for pitch 2.
with Win-yei
Win-yei 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 Lead
will_lake 8 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S I lead everything. Nice move on the final pitch coming round the arete
with Andy (Lake District)
I lead everything. Nice move on the final pitch coming round the arete
with Andy (Lake District)
nick244 3 Aug, 2016 AltLd As four pitches. Led P2, and P3 after the 'traverse' across the ledge. Early start, so we were first on the route. Only saw two others on the route, a couple of friendly German climbers who caught us on the last pitch. Great day, first big trad multipitch, and enjoyed it all. The third and fourth pitches in particular were great. The first couple of pitches were a bit more scrappy, but it all added to the experience. Didn't find polish an issue at all
with j.kirby
As four pitches. Led P2, and P3 after the 'traverse' across the ledge. Early start, so we were first on the route. Only saw two others on the route, a couple of friendly German climbers who caught us on the last pitch. Great day, first big trad multipitch, and enjoyed it all. The third and fourth pitches in particular were great. The first couple of pitches were a bit more scrappy, but it all added to the experience. Didn't find polish an issue at all
with j.kirby
j.kirby 3 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with nick244
with nick244
will_lake 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf
Richardlake 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf Description in the rockfax book is off for the first two pitches. The first pitch is a very long scramble or easy lead. Second traverse is a lot shorter than 20 metres. Also couldnt find the bolt / fixed belay at the end of pitch two, only an old peg in the crack. So much loose rock on those first two 'pitches'...
Description in the rockfax book is off for the first two pitches. The first pitch is a very long scramble or easy lead. Second traverse is a lot shorter than 20 metres. Also couldnt find the bolt / fixed belay at the end of pitch two, only an old peg in the crack. So much loose rock on those first two 'pitches'...
james1978 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Steve Shorrock 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with katiet
with katiet
katiet 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz 1 Sep, 2015 Lead The description in the Rockfax guide for the start of the climb is wrong. Instead: 1) 50m Climb & scramble (scree) up the leftward trending gully to a notch in the ridge. 2) III+ 45m From the notch climb up the ridge to a large ledge and then walk right along this to belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
with Clare
The description in the Rockfax guide for the start of the climb is wrong. Instead: 1) 50m Climb & scramble (scree) up the leftward trending gully to a notch in the ridge. 2) III+ 45m From the notch climb up the ridge to a large ledge and then walk right along this to belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
with Clare
j4kub 29 Aug, 2015 Lead
with claire gibson
with claire gibson
PPP 28 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Hidden
with Hidden
Hidden 28 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Sankey 11 Aug, 2015 Lead
with Andy E
with Andy E
rockafunked ?Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2, 5 and 6. Cruxes well protected by pegs, supplemented by placing pro. Careful if abseiling - our ropes got stuck on pitch 5.
Led pitches 2, 5 and 6. Cruxes well protected by pegs, supplemented by placing pro. Careful if abseiling - our ropes got stuck on pitch 5.
Hidden 24 Jul, 2015 Lead
Hidden 24 Jul, 2015 2nd
91dave 24 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Gavdee1 6 Jul, 2015 Lead First pitch only due to overcrowding on route..........
with Tony Johnson
First pitch only due to overcrowding on route..........
with Tony Johnson
cpforbes ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
duncana 30 Jun, 2015 AltLd Doing the traverse of three towners. Long day, climbing never too hard, but enjoyable. Each tower is bigger than the previous! Tricky to find descent between 1st and 2nd towers.
with Pippa Archer
Doing the traverse of three towners. Long day, climbing never too hard, but enjoyable. Each tower is bigger than the previous! Tricky to find descent between 1st and 2nd towers.
with Pippa Archer
alooker ?Jun, 2015 Lead
eve29 8 Sep, 2014 2nd
centurion05 8 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S A shame that the new awesome Rockfax guide is incorrect for the first pitch. You can climb up the gully, but it is no where near 25m long. From a safe point at the bottom of the gully you are looking at about 50-60m of loose choss. A more amenable route is to climb the easy ground to the left of the pinnacle, around the back and drop into the top of the gully. This is very polished also leading me to think I wasn't the first to do this. Nice enough route, top pitch is fun. Very safe.
with eve29
A shame that the new awesome Rockfax guide is incorrect for the first pitch. You can climb up the gully, but it is no where near 25m long. From a safe point at the bottom of the gully you are looking at about 50-60m of loose choss. A more amenable route is to climb the easy ground to the left of the pinnacle, around the back and drop into the top of the gully. This is very polished also leading me to think I wasn't the first to do this. Nice enough route, top pitch is fun. Very safe.
with eve29
Charlie Eperon 8 Sep, 2014 2nd
Alex Eperon 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Giles Eperon 8 Sep, 2014 Lead
Alessandro Tentori 12 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S somebody drilled a spit into the crux, which is now considerably easier despite the polish
with Luca Gasparini
somebody drilled a spit into the crux, which is now considerably easier despite the polish
with Luca Gasparini
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Sep, 2013 Lead dnf
Hidden 2 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 AltLd
Marq 19 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with PontiusPirate, James Pearson
with PontiusPirate, James Pearson
Hidden 19 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 23 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Polished in places, but a worthwhile outing, good crux pitch.
with jezb1
Polished in places, but a worthwhile outing, good crux pitch.
with jezb1
jezb1 23 Jul, 2012 AltLd Too polished to be as enjoyable as it should have been. Polish ruined it for me.
Too polished to be as enjoyable as it should have been. Polish ruined it for me.
Melanie Parkin 17 Jul, 2012 2nd dnf
Eoinparker 17 Jul, 2012 2nd dnf Got to pitch four then abseiled off
Got to pitch four then abseiled off
John Nuttall 11 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Andy H
with Andy H
timofy 20 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 16 Sep, 2011 Lead
onlyfoddington 13 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S polished last pitch made things more tricky
polished last pitch made things more tricky
stevorobs3 13 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with andy howell, onlyfoddington, Giovanni Milandri
with andy howell, onlyfoddington, Giovanni Milandri
Hotcake ?Sep, 2011 AltLd Lead 4 pitches. Climbing with packs. UIAA Gr 4 but felt difficult. Well protected.
Lead 4 pitches. Climbing with packs. UIAA Gr 4 but felt difficult. Well protected.
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 AltLd
Griff87 24 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 6 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 26 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Danny Mickers
with Danny Mickers
Hidden ?Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Rampikino 19 Aug, 2010 Lead Great fun on increasingly awkward rock.
with Cat
Great fun on increasingly awkward rock.
with Cat
theotherpetehill 3 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
zach.stone 3 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S P1,3
P1,3
JLS 13 Jul, 2010 AltLd dog Point of aid at last pitch crux
with Jacqui
Point of aid at last pitch crux
with Jacqui
EmileCilliers 30 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 28 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Welsh Tom, Sian
with Welsh Tom, Sian
SianR 28 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Jonnie & Welsh Tom
with Jonnie & Welsh Tom
simon kimber 18 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Hanski
with Hanski
Hanski 18 Jun, 2010 2nd
Hidden ?May, 2010 2nd
Euan Strachan ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Laus
with Laus
Hidden 30 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Ben1983 31 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S 1.5 hrs
1.5 hrs
paul79 ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Elsier ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Stuart
with Stuart
jcj ??, 2008 -
jcj ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2007 2nd
Hidden 26 Jun, 2007 AltLd
edmund94 10 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
edmund94 9 Jun, 2007 Lead dnf Turned back due to weather.
Turned back due to weather.
Tarquin ??, 2007 AltLd
FrankW 17 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Joe
with Joe
John HW ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Cath
with Cath
alpinist63 23 Jul, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Bob M ?Jul, 2004 -
akhughes ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
Hidden 24 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2003 AltLd
Hidden 24 Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S
John HW ?May, 2002 Lead O/S Instructing
with Stuart Mackenzie, Colin Masson
Instructing
with Stuart Mackenzie, Colin Masson
auld al ?Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ?Aug, 2001 AltLd rpt
with chris praxmarer
with chris praxmarer
Ken lindsay ??, 2001 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
with With Alan
cem 27 Aug, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Miles Butteriss
with Miles Butteriss
EllieWoods ?Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Si
with Si
andyb211 ?May, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Dave Barron
with Dave Barron
Hidden 2 Sep, 1999 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd
Andy Say 12 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 1992 AltLd
babymoac 23 Sep, 1991 AltLd
with Rich Reeder
with Rich Reeder
Neil McA 1 Jul, 1990 Lead O/S
with Alice Eisele
with Alice Eisele
tjekel ??, 1987 -
bobelvedere 1 Jul, 1981 Solo
Falko 1 Aug, 1973 Lead O/S
with TRE
with TRE
Falko 1 Aug, 1973 Lead O/S
with TRE
with TRE
Hidden ?Aug, 1972 AltLd
eroica64 ?Jul, 1971 AltLd
with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett
with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett
Seymore Butt ??, 1966 AltLd
with John Whitfield
with John Whitfield
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set