A fantastic climb and a Dolomites classic. The route was once considered the hardest in the Dolomites and even today requires a committed party.
Start the route at the base of a spur below the right edge of the first great ledge, to the left of a yellow/black overhanging face.
1) III, 60m. Climb the spur easily from right to left.
2) IV+, 30m. Climb a compact grey crack leftwards to reach the base of a yellow overhanging crack.
3) VIII- or VI+/A0, 30m. Climb the steep yellow wall above. After a few metres trend right by a flake on the left for a few metres then continue more or less direct, following the many pegs. Move back left for a few metres to a small ledge with belay pegs.
4) VI-, 40m. Move direct then right, overcome an bulging niche direct then continue more easily to a loose ledge. Traverse left to the base of a corner.
5) V+, 35m. Climb the corner and exit to a stance on the left.
6) V, 40m. Climb direct then right to moves up an enjoyable cracked wall. At the pronounced roof, make an exposed, characteristic and very cramped traverse left, squeezing below the roof to reach the first great ledge.
7) I, 70m. Traverse left to reach a peg, where the next pitch begins. Route finding can be challenging in the upper sections, but the pegs and that offer good indications.
8) V, 30m. Climb the crack above, aiming for a white streak around 50m above the ledge. Overcome a bulge to reach the belay on a small ledge.
9) V+, 35m. Climb direct then right to reach a yellow/white corner. Climb the corner to just below its end, then exit right around the arete. Traverse horizontally for 15m to reach a small ledge.
10) IV+, 40m. Climb grey, featured rock and move easily right to a belay on a good ledge.
11) V+, 40m. Continue right on the loose ledge to a cluster of pegs with tat then climb direct. Follow moves right to arrive below a detached boulder, climb to the right of this then move left to a stance on a small ledge.
12) VI-, 30m. Climb direct to a roof, then climb a corner on the right (beware of loose pegs) to reach the belay below a yellow corner-crack.
13) VI-, 30m. Climb the overhanging chimney-crack above, then leave this following pegs to the right.
14) VI-, 40m. Climb grey compact rock, then overcome a bulge and traverse right to belay near a niche.
15) IV, 50m. Climb left around an overhang then move back above it. Continue on easier ground to the second great ledge.
From here it is possible to continue to the top in 4 pitches, but descent along the ledge leftwards is strongly recommended. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The most Popular climb on the crag. A must to call yourself a Dolomiti Climber.
The crux pitch comes close to the start and weighs in at about F7a+ or VI+/A0. The crux is protected with bolts altough they are well spaced. Beware of loose rock, and rocks falling from above. (although that could be said about most Dolomiti Climbs)
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