Rockfax Description
A great climb with straightforward route-finding following the striking Dimai Crack - a must for chimney enthusiasts.
1) III, 40m. Start at the foot of the large gully between Cima Sud and Cima Nord. Climb the gully for 18m before following a left-trending chimney to the foot of the face and Dimai Crack proper.
2) V+, 30m. Climb the crack past a large flake for 10m before stepping left to the base of a corner. Climb the corner and subsequent crack for 20m. Belay in the niche at the top.
3) VI-, 20m. Continue up the corner-crack for 30m, passing a small overhang on the left, and belay below an overhang breached by a large crack.
4) VI-, 30m. Take the overhanging crack direct on good holds and follow the natural line for another 30m until a large ledge is reached.
5) II, 30m. Traverse 15m left on the ledge and follow a loose but easy chimney to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A great climb with straightforward route-finding following the striking Dimai Crack - a must for chimney enthusiasts.
1) III, 40m. Start at the foot of the large gully between Cima Sud and Cima Nord. Climb the gully for 18m before following a left-trending chimney to the foot of the face and Dimai Crack proper.
2) V+, 30m. Climb the crack past a large flake for 10m before stepping left to the base of a corner. Climb the corner and subsequent crack for 20m. Belay in the niche at the top.
3) V+, 30m. Continue up the corner-crack for 30m, passing a small overhang on the left, and belay below an overhang breached by a large crack.
4) VI-, 40m. Take the overhanging crack direct on good holds and follow the natural line for another 30m until a large ledge is reached.
5) II, 30m. Traverse 15m left on the ledge and follow a loose but easy chimney to the summit.
FA. Degasper, Dimai, Dimai 1932
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Grade: VI- ***
(Piz Ciavazes)