A classic route, combining a strenuous corner with technical face climbing on small pockets and crimps.
Start at the base of a short wall below the corner, marked with red grafitti 'FIN' by the first bolt of Clarissa.
1) IV, 10m. Climb a short crack then move easily left to the base of the prominent corner.
2) VI, 35m. Climb the well-protected corner with steep three-dimensional climbing, moving onto the right wall for one awkward move, then exit left and make a short traverse to a belay.
3) VI+, 20m. Climb steeply for 5m then make a short rightwards traverse on pockets. Continue a few metres direct then move back diagonally left to an uncomfortable stance.
4) VI-, 30m. Climb a shattered crack then make an awkward diagonal traverse right. Climb another crack right then move back left following a black slab before climbing direct to reach a small ledge.
5) V+, 30m. Continue in the same line, following a black slab, then pull through a small roof to reach a scree ledge. Continue direct then step right to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch trad route - French grades: 2, 6a, 6b, 6b, 6a. Note, a lot of the pegs have been removed
W. Gstrein, M. Jokinen 27/Jul/1959.
Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel