The classic itinerary of Torre Grande. A justifiably popular route with an outstanding traverse on the 3rd pitch. The 1st pitch is very polished which can make it feel difficult for the grade.
Start at a pronounced corner 5m left of the tower's arete.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the polished wall direct taking a slight deviation at 10m round a bulge. Follow the wall direct for another 15m until you reach an equipped belay on a large ledge.
2) IV+, 35m. Step right heading for a corner. Climb the short corner with interest, exiting left at the top. Follow shattered rock traversing left underneath a series of overhangs on easy ground for 20m (peg up high to protect second) until a bolted stance is reached.
3) IV+, 35m. Climb the rising flake diagonally leftwards for 5m. Traverse left for another 5m directly under the large roof, exposed but on good holds, until a short chimney is reached. Climb the chimney exiting to the left onto a large ledge.
4) V, 45m. Leave the ledge on the left-hand side (the line of pegs leaving the right side is Direttissima Scoiattoli). Climb towards the bottom of the large corner on easy ground. Follow the corner feature for 40m before exiting on the left to a bolt belay. There is an intermediate belay halfway up the corner if you wish to split this section into two pitches.
5) IV+, 20m. The original finish follows the chimney just right of the belay, but this is loose. It is possible to descend here, following the ledge system leftwards before descending the normal route. For those who don't want to miss the summit experience, a better alternative is to follow the ledge left for 5m before climbing the wall direct. The way is marked by three bolts. Continue past these to reach easy ground and the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6 Pitch trad route - 5,4,2,4+,5,4
Leads to the south summit of Torre Grande
Classic trad route of the towers, with the polish to prove it. Only bolt is found on the very last pitch, so more like VS 5a than F5.
Angelo and Guiseppe Dimai 29/Jun/1927.