Rockfax Description
75m. A delightful and exposed girdle provides a great mountaineering expedition with tremendous situations following the striking curving rock shelf that divides the lower two-thirds from the upper third of The Bastion's main wall. The shelf can be clearly seen from the main Corrie to Sannox road. Ascend Ledge 3, passing below The Bastion and scramble across to the start, which is near the upper end of and well above Ledge 3 at a rounded flake close to the obvious start of the line
1) 30m Cross two slabs (often wet) to reach a grassy corner and a split block. Climb over the block, then follow the grass ledge to take an eyehole belay a short distance up the clean rock gangway.
2) 30m Follow the exposed gangway to its end and belay on a small ledge just left of an overhang. A splendid pitch!
3) 4b, 15m. Climb an awkward flake-crack, then traverse left into a heather groove to finish on Ledge 4. © Rockfax
Ticklists
The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Arran Three Star Routes , A.P's summer , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , Arran , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Greg's bucket list
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| donna ryan | 24 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: We opted to go up the ‘horrendous’ heather approach: I remember it being like bush whacking but don’t recall it being overly dangerous but probably would try descending in if I did it again as I’m much older and I would like to do it again as it was an amazing climb! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: We opted to go up the ‘horrendous’ heather approach: I remember it being like bush whacking but don’t recall it being overly dangerous but probably would try descending in if I did it again as I’m much older and I would like to do it again as it was an amazing climb! |
||||
| JoeCoxson | 18 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Echo the comments that best to stay on the summit track and descent to the start of the route, unless you like HVG climbing and climbing choss/ heather (which I do, and was quality type-2 fun tbf) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Echo the comments that best to stay on the summit track and descent to the start of the route, unless you like HVG climbing and climbing choss/ heather (which I do, and was quality type-2 fun tbf) |
||||
| Wee Davie | 26 Jul, 2018 |
Show βeta
βeta: In a different league of seriousness to classic mountain Severes like January Jigsaw. The guidebook is not kidding when it says the approach up ledge 3 is horrendous. Anyone for 200m of Weetabix and vertical heather? The gangway is a superb, awesomely exposed pitch but it's a very serious undertaking to get to it. If I was doing the route again I'd walk up the decent walkers path up from the glen then rap down the wide, grassy gully to the start. It'd be safer and more pleasant. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: In a different league of seriousness to classic mountain Severes like January Jigsaw. The guidebook is not kidding when it says the approach up ledge 3 is horrendous. Anyone for 200m of Weetabix and vertical heather? The gangway is a superb, awesomely exposed pitch but it's a very serious undertaking to get to it. If I was doing the route again I'd walk up the decent walkers path up from the glen then rap down the wide, grassy gully to the start. It'd be safer and more pleasant. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Cioch na h-Oighe
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents