UKC

Rockfax Description
150m. This unusual route starts right of the toe of the buttress which forms a square-cut overhang.
1. 25m Climb slabs diagonally leftwards to belay in a pile of boulders under an overhang and left of a shattered-looking wall. This pitch can be avoided by starting from the left.
2. 25m Traverse across the wall on good holds, move down and round the edge and gain an easy chimney which leads to an area of slabs.
3. 15m Cross the slabs to below a vertical wall and belay at its right-hand edge.
4. 20m Crawl through a narrow rock tunnel (the Creep), then cross a narrow exposed ledge on the east face to reach a deep chimney. Climb this into the floor of a great fissure and belay.
5, 6. 65m Escape from the fissure, then climb slabs near the right edge for two pitches to the top.
FA G.C.Curtis, G.H.Townend, 25 Jul 1943 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs through a maze of a ridge next to the Rosa Pinnacle

G.C.Curtis, G.H.Townsend 25/Jul/1943.

Ticklists

Arran Three Star Routes , A.P's summer , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , Arran

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User Date Notes
penfold06 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent features make this climb a little bit “different”. Great tunnel squeeze and tight chimneys. Mid level platform is basically a walk up but excellent 2nd and 4th pitches. Watch out for rope drag!
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent features make this climb a little bit “different”. Great tunnel squeeze and tight chimneys. Mid level platform is basically a walk up but excellent 2nd and 4th pitches. Watch out for rope drag!
Osiris 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There is a massive, suspiciously attached flake on pitch 3. Be careful what you pull on. A single rope, long extenders and DMM revolvers would likely reduce rope drag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a massive, suspiciously attached flake on pitch 3. Be careful what you pull on. A single rope, long extenders and DMM revolvers would likely reduce rope drag.

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sou'wester Slabs

Grade: VD ***
(Cir Mhor)

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