Rockfax Description
150m. This unusual route starts right of the toe of the buttress which forms a square-cut overhang.
1. 25m Climb slabs diagonally leftwards to belay in a pile of boulders under an overhang and left of a shattered-looking wall. This pitch can be avoided by starting from the left.
2. 25m Traverse across the wall on good holds, move down and round the edge and gain an easy chimney which leads to an area of slabs.
3. 15m Cross the slabs to below a vertical wall and belay at its right-hand edge.
4. 20m Crawl through a narrow rock tunnel (the Creep), then cross a narrow exposed ledge on the east face to reach a deep chimney. Climb this into the floor of a great fissure and belay.
5, 6. 65m Escape from the fissure, then climb slabs near the right edge for two pitches to the top.
FA G.C.Curtis, G.H.Townend, 25 Jul 1943 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs through a maze of a ridge next to the Rosa Pinnacle
G.C.Curtis, G.H.Townsend 25/Jul/1943.
Arran Three Star Routes , A.P's summer , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , Arran
User | Date | Notes | ||
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penfold06 | 30 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Excellent features make this climb a little bit “different”. Great tunnel squeeze and tight chimneys. Mid level platform is basically a walk up but excellent 2nd and 4th pitches. Watch out for rope drag! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Excellent features make this climb a little bit “different”. Great tunnel squeeze and tight chimneys. Mid level platform is basically a walk up but excellent 2nd and 4th pitches. Watch out for rope drag! |
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Osiris | 28 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a massive, suspiciously attached flake on pitch 3. Be careful what you pull on. A single rope, long extenders and DMM revolvers would likely reduce rope drag. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There is a massive, suspiciously attached flake on pitch 3. Be careful what you pull on. A single rope, long extenders and DMM revolvers would likely reduce rope drag. |
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Grade: VD ***
(Cir Mhor)