UKC

350m. As the name suggests the crux of the climb is getting the conditions right. Probably still after over 30 years the hardest and as yet unrepeated route on Arran. I took some pictures but unfortunately dropped my mother's camera off a climb later that day. Start as Silo(rock climb) Climb broken ground to reach an ice scoop which falls from a narrow chimney. Parrellel to and right of the ìnitial chimney of Silo. Climb the scoop and into the groove/chimney system. Pass under a chockstone and 15m above traverse down left for 7m passing a steep groove to a vertical chimney crack. Climb this and a second shorter chimney/crack. Mixed ground leads to a shallow ice groove trending rightwards and with a big flake on its left at half height. The upper part of the slab groove may present considerable difficulty on things ice and leads to broken ground. Continue up and right on uncomplicated ground before breaking left to top of face. I got some nice pictures but unfortunately dropped my mother's camera on a climb later that day.

G.E.LITTLE & DO. SADDLER 08/Feb/1986.

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