Rockfax Description
80m. A fine natural line. The first two pitches can be combined to avoid an uncomfortable belay. Start below an arĂȘte, under a big lug of rock high up, about 15m left of the unpleasant curving crack.
1. 30m 5b Climb the left side of the arĂȘte via a corner and pull right on to the edge. Enter a twin-cracked corner and climb it to a sloping stance below a roof.
2. 10m 6a/6b Make a hard contorted move left below the roof to enter a groove behind the lug. Follow the groove to a small stance beside a detached flake, good gear in a crack to the right.
3. 40m 5a Stand on the detached flake, then climb a crack to a horizontal break. Move right to reach a flake. Climb this and the twin roofs above to enter a recess. Pull out right and move up slabs to reach a good ledge. Finish up an overhanging corner.
FA C.MacLean, A.Nisbet (FFA & direct finish), 7 May 1984 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1 is great. P2 is interesting. P3 is harder than it looks. Amazing route.
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Arran Three Star Routes , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
phardman | 5 Jul, 1997 |
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βeta: Brilliant climbing with some contrasting pitches. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant climbing with some contrasting pitches. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cioch na h-Oighe)