Rockfax Description
155m. A classic route following a natural line of chimneys and cracks running up leftwards across the huge slab. Some consider the initial chimney pitches to be harder than pitch 4.
1. 20m 5a Climb the first chimney to a belay.
2. 15m 5a Climb the second chimney to a ledge below a small overlap in the slab.
3. 25m 4b Follow the long diagonal crack in the slab above to a big overlap. Move right around the corner into a niche.
4. 30m 5b Step up and left from the niche round an edge into a groove and crack. Follow these to reach a small spike and flake by a rounded layback. The crack now branches. Take the right-hand crack for a metre or so until a move can be made across the slab. Climb to a horizontal crack, then traverse left across the slab (crux) and up to gain a thread belay on Sou'wester Slabs (at the top of a groove).
5. 35m 4c Climb the corner above the belay, then step left onto a small ledge on a slabby rib. Ascend the rib to the great overhang, then traverse left to gain a wall and continue left around a bulge. Climb up to easier ground and belay.
6. 30m Ascend broken slabs above to a short wall and climb through a recess, moving up a crack to finish on The Terrace.
FA W.Skidmore, R.Richardson, J.Crawford, J.Madden, 3 Aug 1963 © Rockfax
Ticklists
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , A.P's summer , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wil Treasure | 20 May |
Show βeta
βeta: An interesting first few pitches that fizzles out. The \"thread belay\"at the end of pitch 3 doesn\'t have anything in situ (and doesn\'t need to) but it means it isn\'t obvious. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: An interesting first few pitches that fizzles out. The "thread belay"at the end of pitch 3 doesn't have anything in situ (and doesn't need to) but it means it isn't obvious. |
||||
| Gawyllie | 6 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Followed the RH crack a bit high on P4 and ended up as at a steeper slab above the correct route. was able to traverse downwards below this and then traverse over to the thread belay. Looking at some of the pictures this seems to be a common mistake. There's no need to 'follow the RH crack' as all the guidebook descriptions state. The point where they split is pretty much the point you should move left before you get too high. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Followed the RH crack a bit high on P4 and ended up as at a steeper slab above the correct route. was able to traverse downwards below this and then traverse over to the thread belay. Looking at some of the pictures this seems to be a common mistake. There's no need to 'follow the RH crack' as all the guidebook descriptions state. The point where they split is pretty much the point you should move left before you get too high. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Cir Mhor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Ariel's Arête (a.k.a. Squids and Elephants)
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cir Mhor)