Rockfax Description
Best climbed in one or two pitches, belaying after P3.
1) 7m. The easy lower slab.
2) 4b, 9m. Step up into the niche and exit left to belay by a good crack. Direct here is harder.
3) 9m. Climb up and right to a good ledge.
4) 10m. Zig leftwards along the ledge to a weakening, then zag back right to a ledge.
5) 10m. Climb straight up through the bulge to gain the easy upper slab. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A little broken, but a good climb of short sharp pitches. Obviously, it is possible to climb this route in one pitch!
Ticklists
"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Colin Kirkus' routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| milanboez | 12 Jun |
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βeta: Found it strange the crux is suggested as being on pitch 2 - didn't notice any hard moves there? The zig zag felt awkward - I'd have gone direct but didn't fancy risking falling onto my partners head as it's directly above the belay ledge! Crux for me was the mantel before the easier top section. I'd grade this Severe 4a. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Found it strange the crux is suggested as being on pitch 2 - didn't notice any hard moves there? The zig zag felt awkward - I'd have gone direct but didn't fancy risking falling onto my partners head as it's directly above the belay ledge! Crux for me was the mantel before the easier top section. I'd grade this Severe 4a. |
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| agour | 19 May |
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βeta: If you want a hs 4b varient, go direct up the crack at start of p4 (instead of moving left). Gives you the best climbing on the whole route! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you want a hs 4b varient, go direct up the crack at start of p4 (instead of moving left). Gives you the best climbing on the whole route! |
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| C Witter | 21 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route - at least as good as Marble Slab. Lovely rough rock and lots of short steep pulls on good holds from one ledge to the next. Best as one 40m pitch, slightly straightened out. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A good route - at least as good as Marble Slab. Lovely rough rock and lots of short steep pulls on good holds from one ledge to the next. Best as one 40m pitch, slightly straightened out. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Clogwyn Bochlwyd
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Poor Man's Peuterey
Grade: S 4a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))