UKC

Contributed by TGreen Mar/17 - This public ticklist has been seen 3,203 times

An Extract from the UBMC (University of Birmingham Mountaineering Club) Journal 1962 (with some additions from 1965)
By Two or Three life members who wish to remain anonymous and who can blame them!

"Graded lists one believes were designed to give the reader some idea of the relative difficulty of the climbs under review so that he would not climb out of his standard. Perhaps this is still true to a lesser extent but, nowadays, the full satisfaction cannot be obtained from a list until after the climbs have been done or attempted by the climber. Then he will be able to scorn the list and marvel how anyone could be so deranged as to list the climbs in such an order. The authors, realising this, prefer to remain anonymous but, nevertheless, believe the list to be reasonably accurate. We have not attempted to grade climbs of a lower standard than severe as our memories of our near failures on 'Diffs' have conveniently become fogged. Divisions between standards are arbitrary but tend to follow the pattern laid down in Llanberis North. Here then is the list:- "

Rick bringing up Danny on Tennis Shoe.  © Steve Swanborough
Rick bringing up Danny on Tennis Shoe.
© Steve Swanborough, Jul 2013

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Cenotaph Corner

Cenotaph Corner
© Grahame N

Rachel on the crux of Cenotaph Corner.

Cenotaph Corner
Rachel on the crux of Cenotaph Corner.
© jethro kiernan

Tim high up in the pass on Little Sepulchre

Little Sepulchre
Tim high up in the pass on Little Sepulchre
© Adam Booth

Cenotaph Corner

Cenotaph Corner
© Nadir khan

Cave pitch, Great Gully, Craig yr Ysfa

Great Gully
Cave pitch, Great Gully, Craig yr Ysfa
© Tim Sparrow

Tread lightly...and take in the view!

Crackstone Rib
Tread lightly...and take in the view!
© Sean Kelly

Crackstone Rib November 1963

Crackstone Rib
Crackstone Rib November 1963
© jcw

Cenotaph Corner

Cenotaph Corner
© Dan Arkle

Brant VS

Brant
Brant VS
© Sean Kelly

Top pitch of Cemetery Gates, Cromlech

Cemetery Gates
Top pitch of Cemetery Gates, Cromlech
© Steve Ashton

Ken Jackson climbing Laugh Not, White Ghyll. May 1966.

Laugh Not
Ken Jackson climbing Laugh Not, White Ghyll. May 1966.
© Tony Marr

one step in the clouds

One Step in the Clouds
one step in the clouds
© Nadir khan


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
MILD SEVERE
Great Gully S *** 236 267m • 11 Craig Yr Ysfa
Five Pitch Route S 4b * 649 34m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Two Pitch Route S * 696 30m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Grooved Wall HS 15 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Holly Buttress VS 4c ** 38 ? Dinas Cromlech
Wall Climb HS 4b ** 559 46m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
Dives/Better Things HS 4b *** 1520 60m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Crown of Thorns S 4a * 203 41m • 3 Craig Ddu
Crackstone Rib S 4a *** 3647 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
The Cracks HS 4c *** 2369 90m • 5 Dinas Mot
Oblique Buttress S * 18 59m Glyder Fach
Cromlech Grooves S 1 30m Dinas Cromlech
Poor Man's Peuterey S 4a *** 2380 75m • 5 Craig Pant Ifan...
Dead Entrance VD 5 ? Carreg Wastad
Pinnacle Wall HS * 7 30m • 2 Clogwyn yr Eryr...
Paradise HS 4a * 50 85m • 3 Y Lliwedd
Tennis Shoe HS 4b *** 3467 137m • 5 Idwal Slabs (aka...
MEDIUM SEVERE
Nea VS 4b ** 2081 75m • 4 Clogwyn y Grochan
Ash Tree Wall VS 4c * 51 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Upper Slab Climb S * 5 ? Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm...
Cheek S 5 50m Tryfan
Bluebell Traverse S 4a 1 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
The Girdle of the Nose VS 4c 5 47m • 3 Dinas Mot
Delphos E1 5b 32 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Yellow Slab HS 3 69m • 3 Y Lliwedd
Soapgut HS 4b ** 381 ? Tryfan
Notanda HS 4a 3 ? Dinas Cromlech
Thumb Crack HVS 5a 1 ? Castell Graig...
Original Route VS 5a *** 966 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
HARD SEVERE
Chimney Route HS 4a 97 ? Tryfan
Halan HS 4b 7 ? Carreg Wastad
Javelin Gully HS 4b * 110 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Valerie's Rib HS 4b ** 2207 70m • 3 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Side Entry S 2 66m • 4 Clogwyn y Bustach
Zip Wall VS 5a ** 199 25m Carreg Mianog
Garlic groove S 3c 7 63m • 3 Craig Ddu
Thomson's Chimney HS 4b * 436 ? Tryfan
Sunset Crack VS 5a * 63 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Hazel Groove HS 4b ** 115 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Main Scoop Route HS 4b 16 ? Carreg Wastad
Christmas Curry S 4a *** 3593 75m • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Trilon HVS 5b * 117 ? Carreg Wastad
Marble Slab HS 4b ** 991 18m Clogwyn Bochlwyd
MILD VERY SEVERE
Alpha VS 4b * 111 30m Glyder Fach
Fatha VS 4b 1 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Via Media VS 5a * 67 48m • 2 Craig Aderyn (Teyrn...
Question Mark VS 4c 4 48m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Long Tree Gate VS 4c 14 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Rienetta VS 4b ** 399 ? • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
North Side Route VS 4c * 3 ? Tryfan
Unicorn HVS 5b * 188 65m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Shadrach VS 4c ** 1752 ? • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Pharaoh's Wall VS 4c * 188 ? Dinas Cromlech
Long Chimney VS 4c 8 58m • 2 Tryfan
Direct Route VS 5b *** 1852 74m • 4 Dinas Mot
Little Sepulchre VS 4c ** 121 ? Drws y Gwynt
Via Gellia VS 4b 4 ? Craig y Gelli
Great Slab VS 4c *** 375 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Lorraine VS 4c ** 781 79m • 5 Dinas Mot
One Step in the Clouds VS 4c *** 4762 69m • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Petite Fleur HS 4b * 65 34m Craig Ddu
Terrace Crack VS 4c * 14 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Western Slabs VS 4c ** 1492 60m • 3 Dinas Mot
Oxo VS 5a ** 130 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Bovril VS 4c 18 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Babel HVS 5a * 34 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Merlin VS 5a * 961 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Niobe VS 4c 30 ? Craig y Castell...
Sabre Cut VS 4c *** 1580 55m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Belle Vue Bastion VS 4c ** 568 48m • 2 Tryfan
Yellow Groove VS 4b ** 366 36m • 2 Craig Ddu
Munich Climb HVS 5a ** 295 60m • 3 Tryfan
Sheerline HS 4c * 56 30m Craig y Gesail...
Chimney Route VS 4c * 33 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Great Western VS 4c * 362 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Longland's Climb VS 4c ** 359 126m • 5 Clogwyn Du'r...
MEDIUM VERY SEVERE
Curving Crack VS 4c ** 297 66m • 3 Clogwyn Du'r...
Corniog VS 4c 1 ? Craig y Castell...
Shadow Wall VS 4c *** 1456 45m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Rackstone Crib VS 4b * 48 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Bole Way HVS 4c * 94 ? Carreg Wastad
Mur y Niwl VS 4c *** 456 ? Craig Yr Ysfa
Scratch VS 4c ** 1427 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Olympic Slab VS 4c ** 302 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Pedestal Crack HVS 5a ** 192 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Striptease VS 5a ** 1512 50m • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Shake VS 29 ? Clogwyn y Wenallt
Noah's Warning VS 5a *** 942 ? Dinas Cromlech
Phantom Rib VS 4c ** 1783 74m • 5 Clogwyn y Grochan
Bilberry Buttress VS 4c *** 1851 76m • 3 Raven Crag...
Grim Wall VS 4c ** 2361 54m • 2 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Broad Walk VS 4c 2 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Heather Wall VS 4c ** 246 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
Pharaoh's Passage VS 4c * 56 ? Dinas Cromlech
Cracked Arete VS 4c *** 345 ? Carreg Mianog
Cornix HVS 4c * 25 ? Carreg Wastad
Baskerville VS 4c ** 580 ? Raven Crag...
Carol Crack HVS 4c 10 45m • 2 Clogwyn y Wenallt
Meshach HVS 5a *** 1808 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Narrow Slab HVS 4c * 25 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
East Gully Groove HVS 5b 31 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Sheaf HVS 4c ** 143 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Bow-shaped Slab HVS 5a * 34 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Bovine HVS 5b ** 188 ? • 3 Clogwyn y Wenallt
Lion VS 4c ** 510 90m • 4 Carreg Wastad
Javelin HVS 5a * 80 63m • 3 Craig y Gesail...
Brant VS 4c ** 1085 120m • 4 Clogwyn y Grochan
HARD VERY SEVERE
The Old Girdle Traverse VS 4c 4 ? Carreg Wastad
Slape VS 5a * 110 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
The New Girdle Traverse VS 4c 6 ? Carreg Wastad
Pigott's Climb HVS 5a ** 148 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Helsinki Wall E1 5b * 237 ? Craig Pant Ifan...
Ribstone Crack VS 4c ** 851 55m • 2 Carreg Wastad
Biceps Wall VS 5a ** 158 34m • 2 Carreg Mianog
Erosion Groove HVS 5a 65 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Deuterus E1 5b 65 ? Raven Crag...
Ochre Groove E1 5b * 38 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
West Rib HVS 5a ** 800 ? Dinas Mot
Ivy Sepulchre E1 5b ** 801 ? Dinas Cromlech
Spectre HVS 5a *** 1274 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Brant Direct HVS 5a *** 1860 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Gryphon HVS 5b * 25 68m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Left Edge E1 5a * 46 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Laugh Not HVS 5b *** 710 ? White Ghyll
Perhaps Not HVS 5a ** 66 ? White Ghyll
EXTREMELY SEVERE
Kaisergebirge Wall HVS 5b ** 792 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Overlapping Wall E1 5b ** 386 75m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Leg Slip E1 5b ** 869 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Diagonal HVS 5a *** 1533 78m • 4 Dinas Mot
Llithrig E1 5c *** 379 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
The Corner HVS 5b *** 284 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Hangover E1 5b *** 736 ? Clogwyn y Grochan
Karwendel Wall HVS 5b ** 558 34m Clogwyn y Grochan
Cemetery Gates E1 5b *** 2660 52m • 2 Dinas Cromlech
Unicorn Direct HVS 5a * 43 60m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Cenotaph Corner E1 5c *** 2117 ? Dinas Cromlech
Old Holborn E1 5c ** 273 ? Carreg Wastad
Epitaph E3 5c * 22 ? Dinas Cromlech
Yellow Wall E2 5b ** 173 48m • 2 Craig Ddu
First Slip E1 5c ** 507 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Bloody Slab E3 5b ** 55 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
The Thing E2 5c *** 186 ? Dinas Cromlech
Vember E1 5b *** 339 ? Clogwyn Du'r...
Vector E2 5c *** 1397 ? Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Suicide Wall Route 1 E2 5c *** 306 ? Idwal Slabs (aka...
29 e, 221 stars 83,145 3,814m 259
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