Rockfax Description
A great route with a hard, well-protected crux. Climb the cracked wall (to the right of the slab of rock at the base of the crag) to the overlap. Pull through this to gain a single crack in the upper headwall. Make tough moves past this to easier climbing above and a ledge. 'Beached-whale' off the ledge via a weakness to an easier finish up the final slab. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start 20ft left of Arete and Slab, Just Left of the bollard. (Rock climbing in Snowdonia, Paul Williams)
C.F Kirkus, C Brennand Jan/1935.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Kirkus Routes , Ultimate HS ticklist , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Colin Kirkus' routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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milanboez | 14 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Should be 3 stars, mega route! Can't say I agree with the comments suggesting it's similar to 5 pitch route!? Harder crux and then continues for a good few meters with no gear on crimps. Really good but definitely HS and 4b (and much harder than 5 pitch route). Can be done with a 40 meter rope. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Should be 3 stars, mega route! Can't say I agree with the comments suggesting it's similar to 5 pitch route!? Harder crux and then continues for a good few meters with no gear on crimps. Really good but definitely HS and 4b (and much harder than 5 pitch route). Can be done with a 40 meter rope. |
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C Rettiw | 21 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Pleasant, but Rockfax write-up overeggs it. No harder or better than Five Pitch Route and a weak line on places. Not sure where the tough crux move was, as it's all steady and well-protected. | ||
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βeta: Pleasant, but Rockfax write-up overeggs it. No harder or better than Five Pitch Route and a weak line on places. Not sure where the tough crux move was, as it's all steady and well-protected. |
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philhayes | 2 Nov, 2019 |
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βeta: Climbed in rain couldn't feel fingers and in approach boots | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed in rain couldn't feel fingers and in approach boots |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Yr Wrysgan)