UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
A great route with a hard, well-protected crux. Climb the cracked wall (to the right of the slab of rock at the base of the crag) to the overlap. Pull through this to gain a single crack in the upper headwall. Make tough moves past this to easier climbing above and a ledge. 'Beached-whale' off the ledge via a weakness to an easier finish up the final slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start 20ft left of Arete and Slab, Just Left of the bollard. (Rock climbing in Snowdonia, Paul Williams)

C.F Kirkus, C Brennand Jan/1935.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Kirkus Routes , Ultimate HS ticklist , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Colin Kirkus' routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 14 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Should be 3 stars, mega route! Can't say I agree with the comments suggesting it's similar to 5 pitch route!? Harder crux and then continues for a good few meters with no gear on crimps. Really good but definitely HS and 4b (and much harder than 5 pitch route). Can be done with a 40 meter rope.
βeta?
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βeta: Should be 3 stars, mega route! Can't say I agree with the comments suggesting it's similar to 5 pitch route!? Harder crux and then continues for a good few meters with no gear on crimps. Really good but definitely HS and 4b (and much harder than 5 pitch route). Can be done with a 40 meter rope.
C Witter 21 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pleasant, but Rockfax write-up overeggs it. No harder or better than Five Pitch Route and a weak line on places. Not sure where the tough crux move was, as it's all steady and well-protected.
Show beta
βeta: Pleasant, but Rockfax write-up overeggs it. No harder or better than Five Pitch Route and a weak line on places. Not sure where the tough crux move was, as it's all steady and well-protected.
philhayes 2 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed in rain couldn't feel fingers and in approach boots
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed in rain couldn't feel fingers and in approach boots

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn Bochlwyd

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 118
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 97
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Manx Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)

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