23m, 2 pitches.
A bit disjointed but still worthwhile. Start right of Long Climb Direct at a wall between an alcove and an oak tree.
1 13m. 5a. Climb steeply up the middle of the wall to a grass ledge;
then move right and climb up to and left of the small overhang. (This middle section may be damp – a variation takes the shallow corner on the left until holds can be followed back towards the overhang.) Continue on the front of the buttress to a small oak tree.
2 10m. 5b. Traverse easily leftwards to a prominent ledge (junction with Central Routes). A flake above protects the delicate traverse back rightwards to a small isolated overhang. Climb up the wall and corner left of the overhang to a little spike near the top. Avoid the easy finish by moving out to a distant flat edge on the left.
1 13m. 5a. Climb steeply up the middle of the wall to a grass ledge;
then move right and climb up to and left of the small overhang. (This middle section may be damp – a variation takes the shallow corner on the left until holds can be followed back towards the overhang.) Continue on the front of the buttress to a small oak tree.
2 10m. 5b. Traverse easily leftwards to a prominent ledge (junction with Central Routes). A flake above protects the delicate traverse back rightwards to a small isolated overhang. Climb up the wall and corner left of the overhang to a little spike near the top. Avoid the easy finish by moving out to a distant flat edge on the left.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RockWest | 2 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The final section is bold. From the loose flake move right and up to another flake. Good gear. Then up and right into the grove. Maybe a wire. Step back up left onto foothold. There is a good hold up there. The spike on the right is loose. A sling will probably hold. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The final section is bold. From the loose flake move right and up to another flake. Good gear. Then up and right into the grove. Maybe a wire. Step back up left onto foothold. There is a good hold up there. The spike on the right is loose. A sling will probably hold. |
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Route of Interest
The Groove
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))