Rockfax Description
A stunning route with many challenging pitches. Start below a steep groove, directly below the imposing 'Great Arete'.
1) 5b, 25m. Ascend the groove to a ledge, make committing moves up the main groove to a hard section at about 2/3 height over a bulge. Gain the grassy terrace and belay below the next groove.
2) 5b, 20m. Head up the groove, enter the slick chimney section and exit to a slopy ledge. At the bulge, move onto the bubbled wall on the right and belay on a slopy ledge. Wire up high and peg on the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

Brodes 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, and a real mountain experience. Dry apart from P2. My first mountain crag route. Led P2 and P5. I struggled with P2 due to the rucksack, so grabbed the gear a couple of time. Next time I will avoid carrying a rucksack if possible.

with Kirill
Kirill 18/Jun/17 AltLd

Superb outing. Led P1, P2, P4, P6. The top pitch is a bit of a let down with shattered rock and not much gear.

lpruul 26/May/17 2nd

Lot's of techy interesting corner climbing with a delicate quite sustained traverse section. Fantastic mountain route!

UncleMephisto 26/May/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Any lover of solitude and long mountain routes should look no further. Ideally done during a heatwave.

with Laura Pruul
BushwackerBritz 07/May/17 AltLd O/S

Thom- p1, Chris- p2,5,6, Me - p3,4 Good conditions, tough first pitch but enjoyable after! Gear everywhere you would want it!

with Thom Wright, Chris Davis
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
mark4344 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Luckily crag was dry,but pitch 2 still wet at the back of crack. First 2 pitches tough, both 5b. Pitch 4 fantastic. Final top out loose,steep and no gear.

with Matt kemp
Graham Westbrook 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Sustained climbing but a brilliant climb. Some of the cracks were a bit wet but it was in good condition.

mjackson 06/Jun/16 2nd
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/16 AltLd
with Mark
Hidden ??/2016 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Nigel Bond 01/Oct/15 Lead

A great route that does not seem to get many ascents. The route was generally dry but the grooves were wet and lichen on the walls. First pitch is hard 5b, second 5b, 5a, 5a, 4b, 4a. The vertical grass on top of first pitch needs a steady approach.

with Bern Hardman
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Lessworkmoreclimbing 18/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing!! 6 quality pitches which get gradually easier - thankfully, as we made a late decision to go and topped out just as it was going dark. Luckily descent path v good!! Whole route was bone dry and it still merits solid E1. I led odd numbered pitches, hardest part was the grassy/loose bit at top of first pitch.

with Kev
msoldn 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

wild, proper mountain route

with Sam (tree surgent)
rbharries 01/Aug/14 AltLd
with ollie mentalz
Martin Haworth 15/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Led pitch 1 which was wet and tenuous. John backed off pitch 2, so I had a go at it. Very wet and dirty with gear placements that played on your mind as you climbed above them! Halfway up my foot popped and I came off, luckily the nut I placed in the wet moss somehow held. Decided to ab off and come back during a drought.

Brannock 15/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Wet, wet, wet, and slimy and vegetated... Needs a heat wave

dicky79 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

P2, 4 & 6.

with James D
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
chrisallan 26/Aug/13 AltLd dog
climbingpixie 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 4 & 6. Pitch 2 was soaking but I assume it's always like that. Brilliant route following a really striking line.

with Maria
maria85 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1/3/5. First is lovely and quite tricky. 2nd was soaking. Top groove (3/4) very good although some loose rock/snappy holds.

with Julie
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
switch 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Leanne
Tim Sparrow 09/Jun/13 AltLd


with Piers Nesbitt
Derek Ryden 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
Longsufferingropeholder 08/Sep/12 AltLd

Quite a serious outing. Wet and slimy at the bottom. Chossy and unprotected at the top. Not awesome.

Jim Slater 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3 & P5. Climbing was great but tough going. P1 was a right bastard with a scary chossy top out, would def give it 5b.

Graeme Hammond 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Top afternoon (given the late start!). Led P2, P4 & 6. Hard damp first pitch seemed solid 5b and understandably took quite a while to complete but good gear. P2 was excellent hard bridging though a bit damp in the crack itself in a couple of places but easy to avoid and solid gear. P3 has enough gear and some good moves. P4 is excellent and the jugs just keep coming :) P5 is easy & good though quite bold. P6 is easy but very bold, bit loose and vegetated in places but nothing you wouldn't expect on the upper part of a mountain crag. Thought overall pitches were 5b, 5b, 5a, 5a, 4b, 4b

with Jim
philhilo 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Stunning day, only one wet hold on the route. Would grade the pitches 5b - 5a - 5b - 5a - 4b - 4b. Went down slightly off 2nd belay then diagonally up to 3rd belay - hard and lichenous, so might have been off route. 1st pitch full on 5b.

with Helen E
Luke Brooks 29/Mar/12 AltLd
with Konrad Doyle
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Captain Gear ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
centurion05 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

great route, real mountain feel to it. Second pitch is 5b, third has no gear and the fourth is excellent. recommended.

with chris thorne
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
Roger Cruse 26/Jun/10 AltLd dog
with Kris
Matt Bennett 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

5b (in guide). Cracks where wet/green so had to climb without them, made the harder pitches alot harder. Lots of loose holds. Good though

with Mr Lopez, Stuart Honick
Hidden 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Paul Clarke ??/2010 AltLd

Left Leeds at lunchtime so only just got to the Llanberis chippy!

with Keith Morgan
Rich Mayfield 02/Aug/07 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 02/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
sebrider ?/Jun/07 AltLd

Near took a bad fall on the second pitch back to the belay ledge. Groove was wet and muddy, excavation for wire placements required!

with Roby Rudolf
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox ?/Oct/03 Lead dnf

Bailed after the first pitch as Rich didn't have the beans! An early outing!

with Thick Rich
Gus 22/Jun/03 Lead O/S
steveboote ??/2003 AltLd

With Euan Mcallum

Coel Hellier ??/2003 AltLd
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
phardman 04/Aug/96 Lead
with Jon Bibby
mikej 20/Jul/96 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
andybirtwistle 20/Aug/95 Lead O/S
keith Lonsdale 20/Aug/95 2nd
rob.grafton 13/Aug/95 AltLd dnf
with Bruce
Hidden 01/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1995 -
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Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Dave Rumney 15/Jun/94 AltLd
pauldrew ??/1993 -
with Dominic Leggett
rob.grafton 28/Jun/92 AltLd
with Bruce
MikeYouCanClimb 08/Sep/91 -
with Graham Evans
Hidden ?/Sep/91 -
Bob ?/Jun/91 AltLd O/S
with G. Westruppe
Andy Edgar ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Hugh Woodland
uphillnow ?/Aug/89 AltLd

done in drought conditions. I got best pitches. I had watched the first ascent party clean the route many years before

with John Robinson
Nick Biven 07/Aug/88 AltLd

A superb mountain route

with Ray Jenkins
mark-abz 19/Jun/88 AltLd
with Jerry C
Hidden 04/Jul/87 AltLd
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Neil McA 16/Jun/85 AltLd O/S

Did Aura on Craig yr Isfa the same day, great routes, lots of walking to link them!

with Roy Ruddle
Pete Nugent 28/Apr/84 AltLd

Excellent! I led p2&4

with Simon Harry
charlesmfrench 20/Aug/83 Lead O/S


The Reaper 31/Jul/83 AltLd
babymoac 25/Jul/80 AltLd
with MTW
TonyF ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
with Paul Harrison
Hidden 23/Jul/79 Lead
Rob Davies 01/Oct/78 Lead

Wet crack on P2 - bridged wide to avoid this. Main groove (P3/P4) is brilliant.

with Martin Andrew (CUMC)
Mark Kemball 18/Aug/77 AltLd
with Sarah Bridge, George Mumford
Steve Lewis 10/Jul/77 AltLd O/S
with Sandy Wilkie, sharpie
RichardMc 02/Jul/77 AltLd O/S
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 14/Aug/76 AltLd O/S
jon 03/Jul/76 AltLd
with Joe
Marcus ??/1976 -
Martin Bennett 29/Oct/75 -
with JD
Hidden ?/Jun/75 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ?/May/75 Lead dnf

Very damp and greasy. Got to top of pitch 2 which is bold. P1 is steady 5b!

with Tim Moss
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 27
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set