UKC

75m, 4 pitches. A fine girdle with good positions. Previously described as starting on top of the pillar at the first stance of Jingling Wall. To get to this point, the variation to pitch 1 of that route would seem appropriate.

1 18m. 4b. Take the Jingling Wall groove for 10 metres. Traverse left below the overhang and crack of The Ramp. Finish up the left edge of the block to reach the stance.

2 25m. 4b. Traverse down to the right onto the Bombers Wall ledges, and continue easily to a large flake. Move awkwardly under the overhangs, past the downward-pointing fang, to reach a ledge on the right below the yellow wall.

3 20m. 4b. After crossing a rib, step down and make delicate moves to a small ledge. Continue rightwards to the large sloping ledge of Long Climb and traverse to the small rounded spike (belay possible). Step up to the right, and go round the corner. Avoid the large ledge with a downward traverse across a vertical wall to reach a corner (junction with Hen Bryd). Move up to belay at the oak tree or on the ledge behind.

4 12m. 4a. To the right, a traverse-line can be taken to the far end of the cliff, to finish just left of a small corner (junction with Consolation).

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Route of Interest
Kirkus's Route

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig Lloer)

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