A long and challenging route with three big pitches up the Great Wall. Like Right Wall and Lord of the Flies, the route is considered easier when someone has done the hard work and chalked it up for you. Start on a small grassy ledge halfway between Great Wall and November.
1) 6a, 26m. Trend up and left making your way towards ledges and a peg. Move up and slightly right to a wire looped over an old bolt. Move up and slightly left to a peg hidden in a flake/groove on the left (easy to miss). A hard laybacking type move followed by a reach leads over a bulge. A line of holds leads leftwards to just above the belay of Great Wall, step down and belay.
2) 6a, 23m. Follow Great Wall up the groove for about 10m, to a move left onto a tiny ledge on the wall. A thin and technical wall above leads to holds that track left to the belay on Daurigol.
3) 6a, 28m. Easy climbing leads up and left towards Chimney Route - stop just before this. Head up to the steep arete - a side-runner to the right protects the initial steep section. A powerful series of moves up this leads to an easing in both angle and difficulty. Collapse onto the ledge above knowing you have just completed one of the best E6s in the country. © Rockfax
North Wales Super Route E6's , Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer.
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