Indian Face has established itself as the route of the 1980s. Seven repeats in the quarter of a century since it was first climbed and no on-sight ascents, despite routes with bigger E-grades receiving more attention. We haven't really included this route so that you should actually go and climb it, more to show you where it goes. If you are keen to make an ascent then we suggest you track down one of the previous ascensionists to get their beta. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Extract from the 1989 Cloggy Guide by Paul Williams:
*** The Indian Face 150 feet
(a.k.a. The Headmaster's Wall)
Standard: E9; Exceptionally Severe (Excessively so). Rubbers.
It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...
Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...
The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.
Extreme Rock , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Hardest routes in Britain , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , North Wales Psyche
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