A great route that is best used as an extension of a route on East Buttress. Scramble up to below a corner, right of the arete right of Octo, to a spike belay.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the groove on worrying holds for 9m then traverse left on flakes towards a ledge on the arete. Move up (old peg up and right is not needed) onto the arete to a crack. Make committing moves up this then an easier traverse left leads to the base of another groove. Climb this to a belay.
2) 8m. Climb easily up then left to a stance above Octo. Scramble off right or, better, tackle the next route..... © Rockfax
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