A great direct version to Scorpio, sharing its middle section. P2 is long, so take a large rack. Hard for the grade.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Scorpio but move right to a stance below the wall.
2) 5c, 45m. Climb a thin crack to reach the groove of Scorpio (possible belay). Follow Scorpio to a peg, then take the crack on the left to an overlap. A long move round this leads to another easier crack, follow this to the top. © Rockfax
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