The best of the bunch takes a direct line up the Boulder. Often considered an E4 climber's Indian Face, the route features thin and technical climbing with spaced protection. A good rack of micro wires will be of use. Start towards the bottom of the ramp, just left of a groove that heads up the lowest right-hand part of the Boulder.
1) 5c, 40m. Traverse right across grassy ledges to reach a corner. Climb this to a hollow spike. From this go up and right and then back left to beneath an overhang. Traverse left under this and climb through it on its left side. Above continue left and then back right to reach a worrying flake, stuff this with small cams, before heading up and slightly leftwards to reach The Boulder traverse line with relief, climb up a few feet to a good nut belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Another bold pitch. Climb direct to a shallow groove. This gives some tricky moves before easier ground leads to the top. Belay well back with care. © Rockfax
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