One of the great Welsh Classics, with the other of Cloggy's great lasso/pendulums. Start about 30m right of the base of Eastern Terrace, where a small broken pinnacle leans against an overhang.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up and off the pinnacle and make a delicate traverse across the lip of the overhangs to a groove. Move left again into an often-wet groove and follow this to a ledge and flake belay. Quite a serious pitch so place all the limited runners you can find, your second will need them! It is possible to leave a sling on a low spike to back-rope the second.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove and slab to the base of the main upper slab.
3) 5a, 30m. Move up the slab briefly and then make a diagonal traverse with difficulty to the arete (Linnell's Leap in reverse). Climb the arete to a spike, move right and take a thin crack up to a flake. Head left round the rib to a groove and move up to a belay.
4) 5c, 15m. Pull up and right round the arete, from here there are several options. The original is to lasso a small spike over in the groove - you'll need good eye sight and the precision aim of a cowboy plus about 12m of rope. You can then either pendulum across or free climb the thin traverse (this is also possible without the spike lassoed of course). A third option, which requires bravery and an extra E point, is climbing the extremely bold blunt rib direct at E3 5c before moving right to the belay.
5) 5a, 35m. Climb the edge of the slab up to a ledge.
6) 4a, 12m. Climb easily up behind the belay to a crevassed stance on the right.
7) 4c, 30m. P5 of Longland's. Pull up steeply then move right to a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax
Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock & Other Classics, 2021
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