UKC Logbook - 'Fallen Block Crack/Black Gates'

65m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good, wide, traditional crack, for good, wide, traditional climbers! Start at the fallen block.
1) 4a, 10m. Follow the short crack to belay at a chockstone.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the steep crack above to gain a rest at 10m. Continue straight up the slightly relenting fissure to reach The Black Gates.
3) 10m. Move to the left edge of the ledge and climb the chimney for 6m. Head right and up for 10m over easy ground to reach another chimney.
4) 20m. Climb the traditional chimney, complete with chockstone, to gain a ledge on the right. Finish up the slab via the corner-crack at the left end. © Rockfax

FA. (Fallen Block Crack) I.Waller 1908. FA. (Black Gates) G.Mallory 1915 15/Jun/1908.

Ticklists

Routes for MCI

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User	Date		Notes
Markheighton	10 Jul	Show βeta βeta: note: harder than a VS 4c, so if this is your max grade give it a miss. that being said a sensational route (except for pitch 3 that's just a wander and a bit loose). probably the best route I've done in ages	βeta?
Show beta βeta: note: harder than a VS 4c, so if this is your max grade give it a miss. that being said a sensational route (except for pitch 3 that's just a wander and a bit loose). probably the best route I've done in ages