A good route, but high in the grade.1) 5a, 20m. Start either side of the large flake. From the top of the flake, climb the left wall via a thin crack, pass a ledge and head back right to a sloping stance.2) 5b, 30m. Reverse to a tricky move left to gain a groove. Climb this leftwards to the overhang (which the rest of the route avoids by scuttling diagonally leftwards) and up below it to near its end. A tricky step left round a bulge leads to easier ground. Follow this up and right to a belay in the small square corner or the same spike as SS Special just below on the slab. Most people abseil off from here, the adventurous may wish to continue.3) 4c, 18m. Trend leftwards across slabs, crossing the gully and climbing a short steep crack to reach a stance on Nea.4) As for Nea. © Rockfax
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))
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