UKC Logbook - 'Monolith Crack'

Rockfax Description
Practically ungradeable - it will be impossible for the claustrophobic. Start below a deep slot that runs up and left across the cliff in steps.
1) 9m. Head up into the abyss and move up and left behind the monolith to re-emerge on its left below another chimney.
2) 9m. The next chimney is tighter and leads to a ledge below a continuation of the same chimney.
3) 13m. A fearsome chimney which stops many attempts. Face right and squeeze into the chimney. It gets wider if you go deeper and you can struggle upwards for daylight and air!
3a) DeSelincourt's Variation, VS. 13m. For those who didn't manage the chimney. From the ledge, step right and climb to a mantel onto the quartz slab.
4) 9m. Above the quartz slab is one final chimney. Thankfully, it is easy in comparison to the ones below. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , Thrutch and Clutch , Type 2 Fun , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Weird and Wonderful , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet

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User	Date		Notes
myrddinmuse	23 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: To put it simply, I'm (too) fat.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: To put it simply, I'm (too) fat.
Moody Loner	29 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: HVF - Hard, Very FUN. Apart from the fact that you need to be born in the 3rd pitch crack just to get into it (we had no chance), this is one of the funniest 2nd pitches you can do; squirm, wriggle, shuffle, inch and laugh your way up, only to ab off whilst telling yourself that you'll lose some weight, remove a few ribs and grease up like a cross-channel swimmer for a return attempt.
Show beta βeta: HVF - Hard, Very FUN. Apart from the fact that you need to be born in the 3rd pitch crack just to get into it (we had no chance), this is one of the funniest 2nd pitches you can do; squirm, wriggle, shuffle, inch and laugh your way up, only to ab off whilst telling yourself that you'll lose some weight, remove a few ribs and grease up like a cross-channel swimmer for a return attempt.
Tadams	23 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: NOT FOR THE ROTUND! Pitch 3 only went near-naked and bowline round waist - udge low to back of chimney. Well protected throughout by simply breathing in deeply.
Show beta βeta: NOT FOR THE ROTUND! Pitch 3 only went near-naked and bowline round waist - udge low to back of chimney. Well protected throughout by simply breathing in deeply.
PastyBoy84	14 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: An unconventional adventure! The grading of this route is massively dependent on your squeeze chimney/off-width/caving ability. There is a 4th pitch also, taking you to the top of the crag for an easier/safer walk-off. Don't take this one lightly. Also bring a head torch!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: An unconventional adventure! The grading of this route is massively dependent on your squeeze chimney/off-width/caving ability. There is a 4th pitch also, taking you to the top of the crag for an easier/safer walk-off. Don't take this one lightly. Also bring a head torch!