Practically ungradeable - it will be impossible for the claustrophobic. Start below a deep slot that runs up and left across the cliff in steps.
1) 9m. Head up into the abyss and move up and left behind the monolith to re-emerge on its left below another chimney.
2) 9m. The next chimney is tighter and leads to a ledge below a continuation of the same chimney.
3) 13m. A fearsome chimney which stops many attempts. Face right and squeeze into the chimney. It gets wider if you go deeper and you can struggle upwards for daylight and air!
3a) DeSelincourt's Variation, VS. 13m. For those who didn't manage the chimney. From the ledge, step right and climb to a mantel onto the quartz slab.
4) 9m. Above the quartz slab is one final chimney, thankfully, it is easy in comparison to the ones below. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , Thrutch and Clutch , Type 2 Fun , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Weird and Wonderful , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet
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