140m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic, must-do routes of the UK, but not a route to be underestimated. Although never desperate, the route finding is testing. Scramble up rightwards to below and left of a triangular overhang which is below a grassy terrace.
1) 4a, 25m. Follow the well-travelled slab up to a ledge at 10m. Walk 5m left and climb a short corner for 3m and move right across a slab, round a rib and up to a stance on a pulpit.
2) 4b, 25m. Follow the tricky rightward-leaning gangway to a chimney groove, climb this for a few metres, often damp, then walk left on a ledge to and belay below a blunt arete overlooking the large gully.
3) 4a, 15m. Climb the arete then head diagonally right to a large triangular ledge in a corner.
4) 4b, 25m. The big pitch, which is a little loose in places. Drop down a little way, then climb up the pinnacle on the left. From the top of the pinnacle, step left onto the steep wall. Pull up into a niche and head round the corner on the left to gain a steep arete. Follow this until it is possible to step left across the chimney and belay below cracks leading to the upper slab.
5) 4a, 25m. The out-there slab. Climb a cracked groove then step across left, passing a broken chimney, to gain the base of a big slab that overlooks the large gully. Climb the centre of the slab then trend left to the exposed left edge. Finish up this in a magnificent position to a belay in a recess.
6) 30m. Climb direct to a ledge, either finish here and escape rightwards, or tackle one of the cracks above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HS ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, North wales road to ruins HVS, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, High Quality Adventure routes, Snowdonia in Chains.

Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden 09/Oct/16 AltLd
Jen Jones 09/Oct/16 2nd O/S
LauraMorrissey 09/Oct/16 2nd O/S

My first mountain climb

Hidden 09/Oct/16 AltLd
featuresforfeet 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

P1 & P4

with Kat Sizer, Jon
Hidden 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
warwick 18/Sep/16 AltLd

Magic. Was up there with David and Mikael as well.

with Jon
Hidden 16/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
davenev 16/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Graham
Hidden 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/16 AltLd
Barrie Schofield II 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
HJSmith 27/Aug/16 AltLd

Great day out climbing in a dramatic location.

with Clint Rivet
SAF 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

led P1,3 & 5

with Phil
Hidden 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
sheelba 16/Aug/16 AltLd

Lived up to the hype despite having some long waits for people in front

with Naomi
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Sam Husband 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Traffic delayed the start until 3pm. Rain started on pitch 3 and was soaking by pitch 5, added to the mountain atmosphere but regretted the shorts.

with Ed
Stroppy 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Last on the wall at c. 3.30p(ish), went from a beautiful sunny day to downpour as we climbed up. Added to the atmosphere for sure. Started to wonder what all the fuss was about on p1-3, but admittedly p4&5 are quality!

Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Jmpollard 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 & 4, quality route, last 2 pitches are incredible! Really great exposure for the grade.

with Hamish Stephen, Ben Jones
Hidden 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
ColinD 19/Jul/16 AltLd

Odd pitches this time.

with Terry P
Piers Harley 06/Jul/16 AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor
crag_hopper_Jay 06/Jul/16 -
Hidden 04/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
khalidq 25/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Grim looking day then the rain started at the end of the first pitch.

with Marcus Spiering
Hidden 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
jeremyftaylor 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led the first (though got baffled and set up a belay too early which caused chaos in the queue), third and fifth. Gear is a bit awkward on the first couple of pitches and there's a lot of loose rock. Fifth pitch is really super.

olddirtydoggy 18/Jun/16 AltLd

The last slab pitch is the best part, very easy but just really nice climbing moves and feeling of alt. Very easy to pass the turn up the steep arete and belay too early.

HimTiggins 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Phil
GStone 18/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
BarnDawg 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Jeremy
Dan3266 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with GStone
andrewmc 09/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Moving together. Zack led pitches 1, 2, 5 and 6. For reasons known only to himself, Zack decided to do the overhanging tough (5a?) dirty untravelled chimney on pitch 2 instead of going around it on the left - adding interest :) great route; route finding is hard but follow the polish. Exposure is incredible and some of the moves are mad at the grade :)

Hidden 09/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 04/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Dave Almond 02/Jun/16 Solo rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Josh Pitman 30/May/16 Lead O/S
ianstevens 29/May/16 AltLd
with Emily Groves, Joe Dean
joedean 29/May/16 AltLd
DanChad 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2, P4 and P6.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 29/May/16 AltLd
emgroves 29/May/16 AltLd
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd
jon59 28/May/16 -
KevB 28/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Jon Evans
spacecadet10 24/May/16 AltLd

Lead crux

frank ramsay 14/May/16 Lead
with Thea Ramsay
giuly 23/Apr/16 Lead
with Xose' Portela
Jones_88 20/Apr/16 AltLd
with Adam
Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
Allanfairfechan ??/2016 Lead
with Phil Earl, Tony Ormeroyd et al, John Swinburne
PAJames ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 AltLd
John Bunney ??/2016 -
joedean ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
Matt Harmon 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

led P1,3,5,6

Anna duckett 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Nice enough

with Matt H
nathalie fenner 02/Oct/15 2nd
with Nigel Milner
GStone 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

I led P1,3 & 5

Mark Collins 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led 1, 2, 4 and 6. Got a bit grid locked at one point but all worked out in the end. Damp on 1 but especially 2. Bit of a slog finding the descent but back at tent in time for beer and shower, before more beer at pub.

with Neil Henson
Alan James - UKC and UKH 26/Sep/15 Lead
Neil Henson 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3 and 5. Felt quite serious in places as the guidebook suggests. Amazing route though.

with Mark Collins
FlavioL1989 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Last pitch and sketchy bog descent with a headtorch

dom94 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Lead all the pitches, what a route! Pitches 4 & 5 were spectacular!

with Eloise
Eloise_SW 10/Sep/15 2nd
with Dom
Hidden 18/Aug/15 2nd
static266 17/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 & 4, excellent climb on awesome terrain

Hidden 17/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Clegm 13/Aug/15 AltLd

Lead pitches 2 4 6, amazing

TGreen 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Martin G
mark44 12/Aug/15 Lead

Great day on an amazing route . Lead 1.3.5

islandlynx 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

2 days after the big day

with Amy
AmyAmy 10/Aug/15 AltLd
Stanners 09/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

P1 - P4 on lead. Incredible experience from the Bivvi under a trillion stars the night before to the mountain river dip afterwards. Set off up to the crag at 7am to ensure we weren't beaten to it again! Shirtless sunglasses climbing from the start to the finish. A proper mountain summer treat, led in bed this morning wishing I was back up there doing it all again!

RJLeish 09/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
David Staples 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
67hours 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2,4,6. End pitches were super.

with Al Docherz
Fred_Richard 11/Jul/15 -
with Pete
Tom Livingstone 01/Jul/15 Solo O/S
with John Crook
Ali D ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
GazzerM54 ?/Jul/15 Lead G/U
with Aran Yates
lcullum7 30/Jun/15 AltLd O/S


with Rowan Chesmer
Paul Figg 29/Jun/15 Solo

A great solo, bit damp in places but easy to work round. Awesome exposure on big jugs.

JimboWizbo 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Started around 1pm. Finished by 4 is. Lead even pitches. Great

robgixer 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
James Lowe 23/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Made a bit of a hash of the first pitch then just enjoyed it. Great route, amazing exposure, jugs everywhere!

with Ali
Pero 18/Jun/15 Lead
Tarquin 09/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
shaunhumphreys 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Sick route!

with Dawn
franhammond92 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 2, 4 and 6. Ridiculous positions for a HS and fantastic climbing on good rock the whole way.

Dawn_K_B 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

1,3,5. Part 1 of big mountain day

AndrewP 21/May/15 AltLd

I'd give it 5 stars - totally brilliant route.

with Daniel Bryan
DanielBryan 21/May/15 AltLd O/S

Mega climb. Maybe my favourite so far. I led pitches 1,3&5.

dswansonlow 16/May/15 Lead rpt
with Claire
martinov 15/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Phillip Thomas
clairejane ?/May/15 AltLd

top pitch wozers.

with Dougie
Hidden 16/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Eagertom 16/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Rucksacks made this feel more exposed than necessary, but we ultimately enjoyed it nonetheless. The first pitch is draggy, the second was wet (on a great weather day) but THEN it gets good, with solid gear and stunning views. Some loose holds on the 4th pitch (most notably a handlebar thread which looks solid - watch out!)

with Thom Jenkinson
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
JohnMetcalfe 22/Sep/14 2nd

led the first and last pitches. Mind boggling exposure

with Andy Wilson
erbridger 22/Sep/14 AltLd

P2 + P5. Alternate lead with Ned (Alice as third). Ran P3 + 4 together

with nedly14
luke glaister 21/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

Loved it once again. Got to lead the pitches i never did before. 2. 3. And 5. Think 4 is the best tho. Classic route.

casey johns 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 1&4, pitch 4 and 5 are awesome.

ned_85 17/Sep/14 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 13/Sep/14 AltLd
with Roger Chaldecott
GermanAlex 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great route, thanks to the father-son team who allowed us to overtake them! Ended up leading all pitches as I didn't really place any gear to be handed over anyway.

Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
saraguti 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with rick sewards
Stopsy 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Henry
Alex the Alex 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Such a good climb! Paul's first proper outdoor climb in which he did brilliantly. Amazing exposure, views and some really good climbing in p4+5. Reminded me why mountain climbs are so much fun.

Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd
georgenvk 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Becks87
Becks87 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
David_Gledson 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led p3 and 4 in one. Seemed slightl;y average climbing, but nice exposure. Top slab is great though. Lots of run outs and loose rock!

HAJ Francis ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Kris2fa ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch 5 is absolutely fantastic

Rachaeltheclimbingmachine ?/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
robgixer 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Glyn Davidson 24/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

In the rain

with Dan
Hidden 15/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
rd20 10/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Rad even pitches

with Jing
jing 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I led the odd pitches, and Robert the even pitches. P2 is very nice. P4 has great moves around the pinnacle and on the arÍte (great lead from Robert). P5 has an amazingly exposed slab but on very good holds. A fantastic climb.

with Robert
Hidden 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
garywong 09/Aug/14 AltLd

Did a more direct version in four pitches with P2 of Subsidiary Groove instead of P2+P3 and most of P5+P6 strung together. Scrambled the last section.

Matt Harmon 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4

with Sam Ash
Sam Ash 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1,3,5

with Matt the Fresher
Martin1973 07/Aug/14 2nd

a lovely climb!

mikelaing ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Martin Corfield
Ramblin dave 26/Jul/14 AltLd

Good, although "best HS in Britain" might be stretching it. Led 1, 3 and 5.

with Tom E
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
leethebee 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Superb climb in fantastic weather. First pitch quite difficult and probably the hardest on the Route... Or maybe it was just me... But in general the climbing is awesome. A must climb.

with Disco
el disco 26/Jul/14 AltLd

the first pitch was the hardest by far. don't be put off, the next 5 pitches were made in heaven, holds just where you need them. really exposed and airy moves a real joy to climb.

SPD224 26/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead
LovelyMrTom 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 4 and 6. Good day out.

andybirtwistle 23/Jul/14 Lead
with Sue Birtwistle
Hidden 22/Jul/14 Lead
scott1895 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike collings
manmike 11/Jul/14 -
Ste Ridd 11/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mikecollins 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with scott1895
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Rob84 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Pidg
Hidden 08/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
ollyroberts 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2,4,6

piersnewton 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

lead 1,3,5

Jack93 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Laed 1,3 and 5. The slab in P5 is in an amazing position!

Andrew will wilson 29/Jun/14 -
spidermonkey09 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Nice, hardest moves are getting off the deck on the first pitch. Easy after that with occasionally sparse gear.

luke glaister 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

What a route. I did P1 and 4. Andrew 2.3.and 5. At the start I made it harder than it should be. I went straight up the crack to the pulpit block as soon as u step off the well worn groove. There was chalk on it so like a sheep I did the obvious... The 4th and 5th pitches are the best. A must do route what ever grade u climb. 3***s

Luxulyan 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Joel Hendry, Tom Murrell
NeilOMalley 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


Mike_Hayes 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Went to do Lubyanka... but my feet hurt too much from the previous 12 hour day of climbing and Iain's lats hurt.....

richardr 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Superlative positions. Do it even if it low for your normal grade

with rich
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
john lynch 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with Tommy
ChrisBrooke 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Great route. Lovely holds and exposure. Should have done it ten years ago. Went on to do Gambit route and along Crib Goch, descending the N. ridge to get back down to the valley.

Patu 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Nicolas
Jack Manfredi 21/Jun/14 AltLd
james1978 17/Jun/14 AltLd
with pam
tim newton 15/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
luckytourist 14/Jun/14 AltLd

First multi-pitch. Beautiful climb!

JessWilliams 07/Jun/14 2nd
with Dad
wil_perry 31/May/14 -

Probably the best climb I have done.

with Mike
lukebowman551 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing finish up the exposed slab!

with Craig Shelley
Craig Shelley 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the even pitches. Excellent climb with good holds and lots of exposure. (Take your coat)

K Dawg 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Hazle, Kit
mike_w18 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Varied climbing in some great exposed situations, good gear and not a single duff pitch.

with Will
Hidden 21/May/14 AltLd
Adam Hill 20/May/14 2nd

What a great climb.

Rup D 18/May/14 2nd

Fantastic climb. Shame another party climbed through us mid way…pretty ignorant

with Ian Tadman
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead the even pitches. Quite nice climbing

with Bryan Clary
Matt1234 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
Mark Young 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Lead all 6 pitches! Amazing climbing and some fantastic positions

with Helen
tim20 01/May/14 -
Permia 01/May/14 AltLd

Raining! Lead p1, p3, p5.

sgl0jd ?/May/14 AltLd

Slept under the stars and climbed in the sunny morning before dashing back to Birmingham for lunch

with Matt Cooper
Hidden 20/Apr/14 AltLd
adam clarke 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Adam led P2, P4, P6. Routefinding not always straightforward. May have gone slightly off route on P4 but consistently good climbing and pretty much followed guidebook. Perfect dry rock and calm day; in these conditions, felt fine at S/HS. Don't try and be lazy and come off too soon at top, better to walk than enjoy an increasingly loose, vegetated, steep scramble!

with James Hulme
Hidden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
colin milton 16/Apr/14 AltLd

lead p1,3,5

with shaun l
Ows ?/Apr/14 AltLd
mistymarsh ?/Apr/14 -

leads ps and ac

JJL 20/Mar/14 AltLd

Cold and windy. Jack made a cool lead of the final arete.

with Jack
Pete_Frost 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Great climb - in big boots.

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey
jcw ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
with Richard Garnett
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
nj.harris ??/2014 -
a_m154 ??/2014 2nd O/S
with James Ormrod
Neil D 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Slightly damp in places - very windy. Let P1,4,6.

with Nadeem Rahim, Beth Hodgett
shed_hed 27/Sep/13 Solo O/S

Quality, fun climbing and plenty of exposure :)

dswansonlow 27/Sep/13 Solo O/S

Unbelievably fun. It just gets better and better with increasing exposure.

Hidden 21/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
Short&Savage 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Neil Colquhoun
wi11 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lost on P1 rest of climb was v. good. hard for HS!

with Brian
martin c 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

With Rob. I did 4b pitches. Excellent.

BethanWhite 26/Aug/13 2nd
with Aeron
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Prof. Outdoors 20/Aug/13 AltLd
with Wendy
poeter210 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
druss 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Mike_Hayes 10/Aug/13 -
Hidden 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Matt Smith 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1-5. Pitches 1 and 2 with a lot of seepage. Pitches 4 and 5 the best, with 4 having some gear issues.

Kirill 03/Aug/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2, P5+P6.

with Stevo
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/13 AltLd

lead Pitch 1,3 & 4 (3,4 done as one pitch), Part of a bigger enchainment taking Western Slabs, Slow Ledge Climb, Main Wall,Gambit Climb and Crib Coch. Started at 7:30 back down to the car 19:15. A very good day :)

Howard J 27/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Astonished to find we were the only party there. I led the odd pitches, which gave me the wonderful slab to lead. We got the ropes horribly tangled on P1 but once we'd sorted that out it was fantastic. Every pitch is different and every pitch is good - deservedly a classic. Amazing exposure, especially stood on the flake before starting the slab. Brilliant day out.

Hidden 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jwpil 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ben
lost.arrow 21/Jul/13 AltLd
with Sally Fowler
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
kingjam 20/Jul/13 AltLd


James Oswald 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

A great HS.

with Simon Ramsden
Andrew Lester 15/Jul/13 AltLd
Moritz L 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P 1,3,5+6. Bivvied at the base. Big queue behind the next team. Fair bit of loose rock. Pitch 4 and 5 were the best. Finished the day with a climb up the ridge next to it and summit of Snowdon.

David Kay 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Got on the route after a midgy bivy - well worth it to avoid the queues though. Great route especially in the upper pitches. Watch out for the loose rock as some of it is quite friable.

Rob Pitt 14/Jul/13 Solo
Huw Mithan 13/Jul/13 AltLd
with Jonathan Parton
bigglesbutcha 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic. Beat the crowds, 1st rope on route, 5 hours. Me P1, P3 and P5 (traverse and slab, excellent), Murray P2, P4 (tricky pinacle and exposure)and P6 (scramble). Stunning, absoultely stunning route.

with Murray Gallagher
JonParton 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I lead P2, P4 & P6. P4 felt a bit dodgey with the step across on the the wobbley pinnacle but once out at the phenomenal position climbing up the ArÍte it was fantastic. Make sure you stick to the ArÍte but out left is where your gear is! All pitches were pretty damn good climbing in good positions and P5 makes for an awesome picture! Also Went a bit too far on P6 and climbed my own extra bit of wall that several behind then followed as they could hear voices ... Climb claimed as "Unnecessary" Severe. ha

JenRoberts 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Fred D
Karlos 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really nice. On good solid rock throughout, and always plenty of gear. Lovely exposure rounding the corner and going up the arete. Been on my list for quite a while now, so a rewarding tick!

Rob Pitt 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
joemallia 08/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
Ray Sparks 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with paul
Clay C 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with KMC
beds74 07/Jul/13 AltLd

I started. In my top 5 all time favourite routes. Not enough time for the Grooves....

with Ray Sparks
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
Grabtheslab ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Goodstuff 20/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 4 (Jason ran 5 and 6 together because it started raining). Best HS in Britain? Easily.

Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
rbharries 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with neils EW, ollie mentalz
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
steve.warrington 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch 1 &4

with Mike Barclay, Stuart Llewellyn
Hidden 10/Jun/13 -
Jenny Hall 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S

just as good as the last time

with Louis
Louis Hume 09/Jun/13 Lead

Scorchio, head was all wrong, so didn't really dig it today, shame.

with Jenny
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
thecurlyone 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

I lead p2, p4, p6. Found the hardest bit the rightmost section of p2. Exposure on p4 is awesome. Fantastic route with Kate on her birthday.

Katex 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, great day, my birthday.

with Ben
JasonV 02/Jun/13 Lead

Fantastic climb - tons of exposure on good holds and plenty of gear. A must for any HS leader.

with Roberto
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd
Dan724 31/May/13 Lead O/S

One of the best climbs I've done, superb.

with James Lloyd, Steve Keys, Ben Ryle
BenRyle 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Steve Keys
JamesLloyd 31/May/13 2nd O/S
ali macphee 26/May/13 2nd
carl_123 26/May/13 Lead O/S
MartF 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

With Ash Green. Went off course on next to last pitch but managed to find all the right belays.

with Ash
ashsleight 07/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route. Not at all as bad as you may think. Found pitch 2 the trickiest and pitch 4 + 5 were the best. Great exposure throughout.

with Student
Zoomer 07/May/13 AltLd O/S

Great day at work, lovely weather, good route and a competant student. Good gear but some loose bits. Steady HS, get on it!

with A Student
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lodge 06/May/13 AltLd O/S

Great mountain day out, a lovely climb with fantastic exposure in several places. Probably at the top end of the grade but it's all there if you spend a little time looking.

with Jonathan, Tony, Steve
Thomas Healing 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Scramble to the bottom of climb, some loose rocks. Great climb. Descend left @ top. stay on main path

Tony Ryland 06/May/13 AltLd
sprout3099 ?/May/13 -
with Freeman
RM199 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Mike Soulby 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
chris ginge ??/2013 Lead
chris ginge ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
rob16 ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
C May ??/2013 AltLd
with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder ??/2013 AltLd
with C May
Darrell Read 06/Oct/12 AltLd

Led P2, 4. Will chose interesting stances!

becoming-stranger 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Serious barrel of laughs (once safely back in the tyn y!)

Hidden 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
petegruf 09/Sep/12 AltLd
with Steve G
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead β
Harri777 08/Sep/12 AltLd
with Stephen T
Hidden 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Binder 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome! I led p2 and p4.

with Ed H
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd
Jevans ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Jenny Hall 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead
cbeard 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Linked most pitches in pairs. P4 and 5 combo was awesome!

Katherine Ross 10/Aug/12 2nd O/S

P4 and 5 are fantastic and the pulpit stance is really cool! Great route.

Danjones 21/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Bit wet in places, but great route just as good as it was when I first followed it 20 odd years ago!

with Gerallt, Craig roberts
Gerallt Owain 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Craig Roberts, Dan Jones
gw3285 07/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd
elyben 02/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
LozM 01/Jun/12 AltLd
with Mark J
zukator 28/May/12 AltLd

The best Severe in Wales.

with Mike
Ollie B 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

After work.

with N.Sommers
cheeky 28/May/12 AltLd
MikeLell 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 2, Bob led 3 and 4, I led the rest. Amazing route! Had been on wishlist for ages and would happily do it again!

Dizz 27/May/12 AltLd O/S


Hidden 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
NB Pixel 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Seriously amazing for the grade.

with DizLiz
jonleighton 27/May/12 Lead O/S
mark4344 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

no real hard moves, but some spaced gear. not one to push your grade on

with Matt Payne
Hidden 21/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/May/12 AltLd
Andrew Lester 20/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Kev Bland 05/May/12 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb and a brilliant day out! Exposure was something else,got to say it did feel hard in places, however, guide was a bit cryptic in places and i'm sure we dropped off line a tad between P3 and P4.

Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd rpt
JGW ?/Apr/12 AltLd

Superb climbing and positions. The slab pitch in particular was one of the most enjoyable I've done.

with Matt Tilley
mark20 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
tiga271 25/Mar/12 AltLd

As luck would have it led first so got all the 4a pitches and excellent final pitch, left hard work to youth.

with mark20
matt_read 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Great day out - EPIC! Wet, windy, cold all that you could ask for in a great adventure! Note to self remember your headtorch! Well done to Paul T for leading 4 pitches in Big boots and to Andy for leading P2 slimy chimney. All round brilliant fun

paultaylor 24/Feb/12 Lead
with Andy B, maffer the faffer
Hidden 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/12 -
Darron ??/2012 -
A Downing ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
Gavin1979 ??/2012 -
Al Evans ??/2012 Lead
adie84 ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Dave Hill ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 19/Nov/11 AltLd dog

Aided P2 - Sopping wet!

Julian Prieto 19/Nov/11 AltLd dog

Rock was wet. Led P1,3,4 cleanly. P2 was very wet and I came off when seconding.

tomshanti 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

me p1,3,5.low down(p1+2)WET!thus very tricky.took the higher,poss. harder,gangway to the groove on p2.upper pitches stunning!

Hidden 07/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Viki 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Jonny Nick 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route! If tiring. Pitch 4 and 5 were the highlights, a 'relief' to reach the top and eat food amongst other things

with Viki
Hidden 01/Oct/11 AltLd
deklan 28/Sep/11 Lead
with dad
A Crook 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Bit wet on a few pitches, top pitch was fantastic. Pretty simple route and route finding was nowhere near as hard as everyone says. grand day out

wilf 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

nick P1 and P6. Crux was chimney on P2 which was wet, nick took airtime there. Superb climb, situation stunning. P5 lived up to billing.

with nick f
Hidden 15/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
catt 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Not as hard, or scary, as is made out. Lead 1,3 & 5. Great route, and pitch 5 is perfect.

with Blane
cmsg 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 3 together (worthwhile with very careful ropework), and 4.

with Llewelyn Thomas
demarcation86 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Cold fingers on ramp pitch made it difficult. Guide book pretty cryptic. Epic surroundings.

with Paul
pryan300 13/Jul/11 AltLd
with T-Bone
Lawrie Brand 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great old school mountaineering route. Took the slab direct on first pitch which was minging.

with Sarah Laing
Hidden 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/11 AltLd
jon59 03/Jul/11 AltLd

Great climb with some varied and outstanding pitches, loved the big pitch and the slab and rib pitch.

matus 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with sasha
John Holden 02/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
with Helen Costelloe
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
Byronius Maximus 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Wonderful climb. Great exposure and covers some impressive ground.

with Luke Evans, Rayan Sammut
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Dan Geh 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

felt serious for the grade

tgeh 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with dan geh
Blurgy319 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Peter Williams, Mark Freestone
HIGHTOWER 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Mark Amyes, Pete Williams
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 29/Apr/11 AltLd
with Rob
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
iwan.wills 19/Apr/11 2nd
with Joe Begley
xusa 19/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Ashley Hold 19/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/11 AltLd
amthalmann 13/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/11 2nd
GOS 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

best done as 7 pitches rather than 6(1st 2 have too much rope drag if combined). I led P2 (chimney wet) and P4 (stopped at small ledge 3m before big ledge overlooking great gully as rope drag got too much.)

with Colin McAuliffe, Amanda Thalmann
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
brianrunner ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
paul79 ??/2011 -
Bob ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Ben C ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

fab, led Dad up it in trainers

Bullybones ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
tombushell ??/2011 Lead
GF 10/Oct/10 AltLd
Jim Slater 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

really nice, didn't pitch it quite as per the ground up guide as we did it in 4 pitches lead the zig-zag pitches walking ramp pitches as one (2 pitches and 3 runners! where was the 4a move?) and the final slabs which were ace with good exposure.

with Jim
mzchambers 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with George Porter
simonward 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

an amazing route.

Mr Wild 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
nakedave 16/Aug/10 AltLd
with Barney Crampton
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Kirill 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 4

cem 15/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

Led p 2 & 5

sbc 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Dunx
Dunx 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Shell
Hidden ?/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/10 2nd
Martin Stevens 27/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

I lead the 4a pitches, Ala the 4b's, including the crux pitch. Her first 4b leads.

with Ala P.
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
smolders 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

John 1,3,5; me 2,4,6

with John
john_ni 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch1, 3 & 5. Hard to find bottom of pitch 1, started up a small slab but became steep, poorly protected & vegetated. Got back on route from ledge & block below pulpit. Gear improved subsequent pitches. Pitches 4 & 5 airey but good gear & holds. Second carried sack. After - to Snowdon Summit & down Y Gribin to Miners & bus back. To think it was put up in 1935 with no gear available.

Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead
andybenham 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Wow! Exposure all the way. Every pitch has something good to offer, with the best being saved to last. Make sure you stop and look around the top slab.

Gareth 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Great day out. Always interesting, no bad pitches, culminating in the slab on the edge of everything. Superb

with Andrew
Rob Exile Ward 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Start is awkward to find, (you need to scamble up another 50' from the obvious gearing up spot); great climb, big day out.

with Sam Ward
fishinwater 18/Jun/10 2nd
with Barry
Hidden 13/Jun/10 AltLd
Steve Woollard 05/Jun/10 Lead
with Steve Scott
mr mills 04/Jun/10 Solo
sdawson1 03/Jun/10 AltLd

took a 12ft wanger on pitch 2 before the final ramp trying to place gear. lost my footing what a clown. cut hand is the only injury

with swifty
steven 03/Jun/10 AltLd

Simon took a big fall on the second pitch but the 1.5 cam held

with Simon Dawson
sdawson1 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

bit of a slippage in the chimney of pitch 2 and a 12ft wanger bad footwork on a wet patch whilst placing gear.

with swifty
Lxaddison 01/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Paul Addison
PaulW ?/Jun/10 Lead

Superb. Never hard but goes on and on. The top slab looks improbable till you try it.

Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd
barni 28/May/10 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2 and 4.

with Karen, Liam fleming
Liam FLeming 28/May/10 AltLd
Noodles 26/May/10 AltLd O/S

What a spectacular route! Lots of airy exposure and well worth the walk in. Route finding at the start and rope drag were slight issues but that added to the adventure. I will remember this route for a long time. Led P2, P4 and P6

Jillybean 26/May/10 AltLd

i led 1, 3, and 5 pitch. Scary and very exposed. Ace climb though on amazing crag

with Martyn
Hidden 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
stewart roberts 23/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd O/S
jubolo 01/May/10 AltLd

Greasy, damp, cold, a bit of rain on the 4th pitch...exhilarating stuff, a real adventure, loved it:]

with mark
mr mills 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
howhard 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1, 3 and (most of) 5. The Rockfax guidebook description for pitch 5 is not good - it sends you up a grassy gully to the right of the main slab, with awkward moves and a traverse of the main slab right at the top. So we missed one of the highlights of this route. It looks like a lot of people make the same mistake as there is gear left in the route. Look carefully at the picture.

Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Lenny 19/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
with Adam
andyebbens 17/Apr/10 AltLd

led P1,P3,P5

with Paul
Hidden 13/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 AltLd
Tom Vivian 11/Apr/10 AltLd
tomparrott 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with DJ
deejmonkey 11/Apr/10 AltLd
with Tom
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Paula Ryan ??/2010 2nd
with Robin Brooke
sgl0jd ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 Lead
soph ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
jimorothy 20/Sep/09 Lead

Oddly, found this quite easy and did not feel that exposed, but my second strongly disagreed and thought it was awesomely exposed. Great gear. Found the ramp on the start of pitch 2 trickiest, and the upper slab edge sensational.

with Rachel Crolla
nickhoward 18/Sep/09 AltLd

led 2nd 1/2 of P1, P3 and P5 (slab) - excellent exposure on P4 and 5.. stepping off the spike on P4 with big rucksack on was interesting!! Slab definetely the highlight pitch.

with John Haslam
Glyn Davidson 14/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Ali
Ali H 14/Sep/09 AltLd

Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5

with Glyn
Tomprusk 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! but the cues where a bit too much at points

with Dad
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Ben Lea
Jams Crwca ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Bernie fell off on the 2nd pitch and almost wiped out a girl from the Pinacle Climbing Club...soz!

with Bernie
Hidden 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
donkster 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with DaveNW
Hidden 22/Aug/09 -
csalvage 22/Aug/09 AltLd

Led P 1,2 & 4. Mass 'hen' ascent following Bridget & Fran, Ali & Sue W folowed by Barbs & Mia

with Mich
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
lithos 08/Aug/09 AltLd

ran some pitches together but I did the looping pitch out to WET chimney and back (P3) and the best one slab and arete - totally brilliant. Started late finished late back to road at dark

with cookie
Hidden 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
BarbsMurray 01/Aug/09 Lead
with Mia Young
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Skinny Kin 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Absolutely superb route. Big air from bottom to top. The best HS I've ever done.

with Ed Russell
chrisallan ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
cliffy 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Combes
Hidden 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hjort 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

stonking beast of a route!!!

Hidden 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
adam06 04/Jun/09 Lead

really nice route! pitches 4 and 5 are the best!

with chrissy mills
hepitt 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Phillipa Arding
Hidden 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/09 AltLd
highclimber ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

took a bit of finding but once on it was a pretty obvious climb. lovely views of the valley whilts enjoying the exposure. we were going to join up with parsons nose but ran out of time (and energy) A Worthwhile route

asmith37 31/May/09 Lead O/S

What an awesome route! We made an early start and were first on the route at 7.30 and enjoyed the sun views and situation, by the time we were at the top of pitch 3 there were queues at the bottom. Did in 4 pitches, combined pitches 2 & 3, guidebook suggests a peg belay at top of pitch 2 which seems non existant along with and descent gear, so carried on to the nice large ledge on pitch 3. also combined pitches 5 & 6, if your ropes are long enough i can't see any reason for belaying at the top of the slab. Finished in just over 4 hours and continued onto reades route. Found this technically easier then i expected it to be, but the immense exposure and seriousnous more than makes up for it. I love that exposure!

jamie ward 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Williams
staceyjg 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led Pitches 1, 3 and 6. Great route, wonderful exposure. However, half way through leading pitch 3, an unfortunate incident occurred on the first pitch so the rest of the route had to be completed whilst MR completed an air rescue. Hand signals and rope tugs became essential forms of communication. This route wont ever be forgotten!

with Barra
Hidden 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
Bex_M 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Ewan Buckingham
Hidden 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 25/May/09 AltLd
with Jayne
daveclarke5 25/May/09 Lead O/S
with Stephen
howlingbaboon 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Incredible route with some mighty exiting exposure in places. Damp rock added to the experience, particularly on pitch 2, as did my brief but frightening diversion from the route. The upper part of the route was particularly memorable with the exposed step off the spike, the world beneath my feet and steep arete to follow. The final pitch was wild, get onto the left arete as soon as possible, ignoring the flake, for the full effect. Cheers Chris!

Hidden 22/May/09 AltLd O/S
freemanTom 02/May/09 AltLd dnf

Did 1st Pitch (in 2 pitches) Abbed off as numerous teams above meant spending more time waiting than climbing and potentially descending in the dark. We'll be back.

Pete Randall 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Rosi
Hidden 02/May/09 AltLd
size9hex ?/May/09 AltLd dnf

Route looked great, but started late and bailed early due to slow party in front.

Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
shim ?/May/09 2nd

highest climb!! pretty easy, bit creepy traversing and going over the arete

Hidden 24/Apr/09 -
ChrisGreen 18/Apr/09 AltLd dnf

first pitch 2nd second pitch lead - went wrong half way through this pitch leading to other problems. Ended up abseiling off the top of the second pitch.

with Gerry R
Hidden 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
A Downing 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Damian Lawson
Daymo 16/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Oh my God! What a great day. I'll be back there soon; the expossure! Andy lead all of the pitches as I wimped out following an early fall.

Hidden 12/Apr/09 AltLd
The Bad Cough 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with John Nesbitt, Chris Minnett
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
peter myers ??/2009 AltLd
with Ralph Heath
Monkey_Alan 27/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 22/Sep/08 AltLd
thompson1000 22/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 18/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Matt Bulmer 14/Sep/08 AltLd
with Andrew Wood
tommy-od ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Amazing, great exposed climbing (I love that exposure!). Just make sure you take every precaution to prevent rope drag! Classic route

with Gavin Barry-Morgan
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd β
Glyn 24/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Trystan
Andy Chubb 23/Jul/08 Lead
with Steve Goodman
The Ivanator ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Had fun finding the start. I led 1, 3 & 5. Pitch 2 wet making the transition from ramp to chimney interesting. Pitches 4 & 5 are just awesome.

with Rich
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
chinwaa 08/Jun/08 2nd

w/ John

Ed Babs 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
Sienna78 ?/Jun/08 Lead

Pitches 2,4

Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
chrissloan84 31/May/08 AltLd O/S

Nice route, especially the top 2 pitches.

with rob
SGD 31/May/08 Lead

great route - managed to get on it 1st before it became a circus

with Carol Umarova
sdrawkcabeoj 31/May/08 2nd

An excellent climb (if a bit exposed). Would climb it again.

with Ken Priest
Swirly 24/May/08 AltLd O/S


with Rich
Elsier 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Stuart
TimPerkin 23/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Richard Harris
Hidden 10/May/08 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

A great day out. A little damp in places, but pretty good conditions considering the amount of rain the previous day. I led pitches 1,3 & 5. John led 2,4 & 6. The start of pitch 1 felt a little intimidating due to the snappy nature of the rock and the lack of decent gear. The slab on pitch 5 is awesome. Just try not to look down over the left side too much!

with John Eales
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead dnf
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
lee richards ??/2008 Lead O/S
with robbo84
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??/2008 -

wet weather epic

with ps
Gibson27 ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Good fun.

Marcus ??/2008 -
Derek Ryden ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Finally got round to this after 37 years climbing and it was a lot harder than I had expected. Not really a beginners route.

with Glynne Andrew
Nicos 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with rich mansfield
MikeLell 09/Sep/07 2nd dnf

retreated from 2nd belay stance

with Terry, Fred and Michael
Hidden ?/Sep/07 AltLd
John Kettle 08/Aug/07 AltLd
Bristoldave ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Helen
climbingxcat ?/Aug/07 AltLd

following Ken and Jo Brian fell and gear popped on 1st pitch. Completed anyway!

with Brian
Strange little creature 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

leb 4b pitches, lots of exposure. Slippy slimy damp chimney mid pitch 2 after a month of rain over latter june & July due to seepage in this corner. A full day trip if done quickley Gambit Climb is a follow on climb if time permits.

with Peter Rolf
paul_d 11/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Caralynh 11/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

top 2 pitches in torrential rain

givemetea 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S

with Jason and Patrick

Hidden 10/Jun/07 2nd
kleinej 09/Jun/07 AltLd

Busy, busy, busy for the first two belays..

with Patrick
Hidden 01/Jun/07 AltLd
gareth r 26/May/07 Lead O/S
eagleopus 26/May/07 AltLd O/S

Martin took the two crux pitches and I got the lead on the top slab. We were climbing in the middle of a traffic jam and I ended up belaying one pitch jammed behind a spike, well entertaining.

with Martin
brady 26/May/07 AltLd
with Dave Simcocks
auld al ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Goody 17/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Dave Checkley, Jim Dewhurst
joe larner 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Ben1983 01/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
mike bridges 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Had been looking for a proper mountain route to do for a while,and this fitted the bill!An absolute classic route.Led pitchs 1,4 & 6.Rob led the others & went too far round the corner on pitch 2,so i led back to normal stance ready for Rob to lead on pitch 3.Got cool on route,finished in cagoules to keep wind out.Ended up losing a walking boot sorting out the gear after decending,it hurtled down the scree,and after an hour of looking we abandoned the search!very memorable day out,one to look back on!

fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
lump'o'lead ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
robertporter 05/Nov/06 2nd
Brown 24/Aug/06 Solo β

Previously led with Alex 2004

with Solo
Ed Booth 14/Aug/06 AltLd

Not that greater route, the cracks is much better at the grade!

with Remus Knowles
remus 14/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

My only memory of this is Ed nearly going for a huge winger after pulling a hold of very high on the last pitch. We where climbing petty quickly and not placing a lot of gear.

KeithW 22/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Had to queue but a good day for it

with Bruce
Hidden 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
tonanf ?/Jul/06 AltLd

first multi pitch. Excellent experience. will never forget belaying at 2nd stance and looking out over pass

with burt
John HW ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Cath
Harry Ellis ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Trefor Hughes
Hidden 24/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Tom Vivian 17/Jun/06 AltLd
cem 17/Jun/06 AltLd rpt
with Neil ?, Pete Atkinson
Hidden 10/Jun/06 2nd O/S
rilem 10/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Ian W
Hidden 06/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
csalvage ?/Jun/06 AltLd

Think I led 2 & 4 (and led p5 on a previous occasion)

with Bryan and Mia
Hidden 20/May/06 Lead O/S
arin78 06/May/06 2nd O/S
with Mark
anthonyp ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
with Max Beer
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
Stig 21/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
Hidden ?/Apr/06 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
robo84 ??/2006 2nd
spoony84 ??/2006 AltLd O/S

climbed with john and nick beckett

petekeron ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S


runestone 16/Oct/05 AltLd
with J
My Gravity 27/Aug/05 AltLd O/S

Did in the damp so a bit slip slidy, but enjoyable positions near the top.

with Ben P
tom.e ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Jamie Crichton
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Chesh 26/Jul/05 AltLd
with Lawrence
TobyA 12/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Gman ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with James, Ritchie
ZA ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with dad
Bob M 28/Jun/05 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun/05 AltLd
Hidden 29/May/05 Lead
nicholas Barrowclough 27/May/05 Lead
with Tim Davies
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2005 -
with Clare
Wayne S ??/2005 -
Bob Peters ??/2005 -

In 2005 I think. Alt's with Dad.

with Dad
ColinD ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
lukea 20/Nov/04 AltLd O/S

in pissing rain.

with Al
victim of mathematics 05/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
James B 14/Aug/04 -
with Oli
Howard J 08/Aug/04 AltLd rpt

Stayed on route this time

with John Waterhouse
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/04 -
Hidden 08/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
Tim W 15/May/04 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
orb ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with Phil Worgan
Hidden ??/2004 -
keith leonard ??/2004 Lead dnf
Howard J 18/Oct/03 AltLd dnf

Got offroute and ended up on Trauma Grooves, Paul B toproped us back on route

with John Waterhouse
aulda 25/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out - great exposure and views

with Dave R
duncana 24/Aug/03 AltLd

Led a fantastic pitch number 5. Great exposure, lovely slab.

with Pippa Archer
NeilGriffiths 19/Jul/03 AltLd
with James Hubbard
timreynolds 14/Jun/03 AltLd
with Dave Barrett
Mark A Humphries ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S

Me 2nd, 3rd and 5th pitches

with gary wood
rob stokes ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with gavin, turnbull,ryan
kp64zl ?/Jun/03 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd
DerwentDiluted ?/May/03 AltLd
with J. Ellson
Phil West 21/Mar/03 AltLd O/S

I led 2nd & 4th pitches.

with Chris Tan
cem 28/Jul/02 AltLd O/S

Led p 1, 3 & 5

with James Gregory
Simonfarfaraway ?/Feb/02 AltLd
with Dave A
brockers ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Dave Turner
Tarquin ??/2002 -
DanH9883 ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
agagsgrot ?/Jul/01 2nd O/S
with Pete
jsw1 10/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
with Dave Sudell
Darragh ?/Jun/01 -

Avoid on sunny weekends. It's best to do this route without a party above you showing the way.

with Rob
Ann S 26/May/01 Lead O/S
with Bill Harrison
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
with Mr Lickerish
five ?/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
with TW
sims ?/Aug/00 2nd O/S

A very memorable day out-just as hard on the second despite what Nick might think!

with Nick
Mark Riley ?/Jul/00 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
mike lawrence? 01/Jun/00 Lead
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/00 AltLd
with Francis Lickerish
Rock Fairy ??/2000 AltLd

Got to lead the lovely slab pitch :-)

with Carl
Hidden ??/2000 -
Bullybones ??/2000 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2000 -
BALD EAGLE 24/Jul/99 2nd
with Duncan Bender
Different Steve 11/Jul/99 AltLd O/S

Led P2,5 & 6

Simon Caldwell ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Mike
dan gibson ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Tim W 22/May/99 AltLd O/S
tlr ??/1999 Lead
with Dad
mjeffery ??/1999 -
Ratfeeder 02/Aug/98 AltLd rpt

wearing rucksacks with boots in, continuing to Crib Goch for Reade's Route.

with Phil
Tony Buckley ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with Robert Clark
dickypips ?/Aug/98 AltLd O/S

SECOND Pitch desperare if wet

with john richards
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
mux ??/1998 AltLd
Daniel Wrightson ??/1998 -
with John Hamill Keyes
Mickdenali ??/1998 -
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
craig h ?/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Rog Wilko ?/Apr/97 Lead

It was a nice sunny day but cold in the shade. If we'd got off an hour earlier we'd have climbed in the sun for the whole route. As it was the sun was always a few tantalising metres away to our left. I'd recommend an early morning start on a sunny day.

with Debbie Wilkinson
rc ??/1997 -
Paul Boardman ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman, Iain Stewart-Closs
rachm2004 15/Sep/96 2nd
with Ian L
Hidden ?/Sep/96 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/96 Lead
nickdonohue 11/Aug/96 AltLd

excellent route

with Sue Pinner
goi.ashmore 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
nickdonohue 01/Aug/96 Lead dnf

started late; problems with 2nd removing gear; abbed off after 1st pitch

with Sue Pinner
Hidden 13/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
Phill_ Thompson ?/Jul/96 AltLd
with Ian Gardiner
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
GuyM ??/1996 -
daprince ??/1996 AltLd

With Ben cold and wet mild epic

Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden 22/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Ian Archer 20/Aug/95 Lead O/S

Excellent climb. untied from thr rope on the crux as it was getting tangled up with other ropes.

with Maggie Curtis
Hidden 04/Aug/95 2nd
liabilityliz 03/Aug/95 2nd
with Dave Instructor, Martin
Budge ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
SimonN 06/May/95 Lead
andrew300169 09/Apr/95 Lead O/S

Jasons face was a picture on the arete pitch. Ive done this a couple of times it's a great day out

with Jason
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
alan moore ??/1995 Lead

Rained off Cloggy so walked over the hill and approached from above. Amazing route, desperate in the wet. Rain finally stopped on the walk down.

Hidden 21/Aug/94 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Solo
Hidden 05/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 17/Aug/93 AltLd
with Alice Henderson
trisimondo 12/May/93 Lead O/S
WB ??/1992 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
MoWalker3 05/Sep/91 AltLd
with Joe
Andy Chubb 31/Aug/91 Lead
with Dave Higham
Iain Thow 12/Aug/91 AltLd

Led 1,3,5 & 6.

with Rob Ivens
Raggar 07/Jul/91 AltLd

unremitting exposure etc

with Jon B
steve prior ?/Jun/91 AltLd
with Paul B
Hidden 28/May/91 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jul/90 AltLd
timbanton ?/Jul/90 -
scree ?/Jun/90 -
with Steve K
phardman ??/1990 -
michael burrows 17/Jul/89 Solo
BigHairyIan 19/Jun/89 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route!

with Alan Lilley (Thug)
babymoac 17/Jun/89 AltLd

Then over to Cloggy for Longlands

with Andrew Ecker
Ratfeeder ?/May/89 AltLd rpt
with Nige M
Hidden ?/Oct/88 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Steve Law
john_ni 14/Jun/88 AltLd

QUBMC trip. Tremendous route but very exposed & serious. Occasional loose rock. Scramble up grass & rock to start 1 Neville. 2 Me. 3 Graeme. 4 Neville. 5 Me. 6 excellent, very exposed but good holds 7 30 ft climbing then scramble

with Graeme Roberts, Neville Roberts
malc 22/May/88 AltLd
Hidden 28/Apr/88 Solo
freeheel47 ??/1988 AltLd
Simon cook ?/Jul/87 -

Simul climbed with Steve bell. A bit tricky on the crux and really exposed at the top

hazeysunshine 26/May/87 AltLd
with Jane
Hidden ??/1987 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/86 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/86 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/86 AltLd
RichardMc 15/Jun/85 Lead rpt
with Angel Vila
Hidden 14/May/85 Solo
charlesmfrench 25/Jun/83 Solo O/S

I remember hearing someone screaming near the top are we approached. Alan was trailing ropes incase we wanted to rope up, but I remember the look on her face as the ends of the ropes passed her and I followed, not tied in at all. Priceless. The screaming stopped after that for some reason.

with Alan Bennett
JNH ?/May/83 AltLd
with JDP
Mark Kemball 27/Feb/83 AltLd dnf

Abed off after 2 pitches - pouring rain.

with George Mumford
Mike Owen 01/Jun/82 Solo O/S
Gezzer ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Derek Shaw
John Marsland 15/Nov/81 Lead
with Karen Creek
MikeDowsett ??/1981 AltLd
with Jon Sharpe
philhilo ??/1981 AltLd O/S
with John Graham
Hidden 13/Jul/80 Solo
Nic Robinson 25/May/80 Lead O/S
with Alice Hampton
tapley 05/Apr/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden ?/Apr/80 Lead O/S
GordonHart ??/1980 Lead O/S
with James Taveran
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Andy Chubb 20/Oct/79 Lead
with Saxon Ridley
Hammy 18/Jun/79 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
Nevil ??/1979 -

Do not know year

Chris Terrey 13/Jun/78 Lead
with Roger Wilson
RichardMc 20/May/78 AltLd
with John Wilkinson, Betty Seifert
Mark Kemball ??/1978 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
Brian Wilderspin ?/Jun/77 Lead
with Brian Wallis
Shaw Brown ??/1977 -
with cliff brown
Martin Bennett 28/Oct/75 -
with JD
rogerskews 18/Aug/75 AltLd
with Ron Purkiss
Nigel Bond 25/Jul/75 Lead
with Donald Workman
Bolt Phobia 17/May/75 AltLd
with Dave Williams
Falko 09/Feb/75 AltLd O/S

I underlined 'Magnificent Climbing' in my Ron James guidebook to Rock Climbing in North Wales.

with Roger Edwards, Bill Briggs
kjacks ??/1975 2nd
Rob Davies 04/Jul/74 2nd
with John Richards (ICMC)
John Stenhouse ?/Sep/73 AltLd

Great day on this north Wales classic.

with John Offord
mikej 02/Feb/73 AltLd

Started out as 2 ropes of 2, but overtook a rope of 3 and ended up as a rope of 7 in the dark!

with Geoff Williams
pneame ?/May/71 AltLd
with Tich Smitton
granitbahn ??/1971 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1971 -
with Steve Warwick
Tom V ?/Sep/70 AltLd
with Graham Knott
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/70 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/70 -

Repeated with John Hynes, Duncan Lee, early 90's.

with Dick Curtis & Paul Chapman
zukator ??/1970 -
Gordon Stainforth 05/Apr/69 AltLd
with John Stainforth
Hidden 26/May/67 Lead
eroica64 ??/1965 2nd
with R J Cummerford of Rock and Ice club
uphillnow 12/Oct/63 AltLd
with jim williams
oldmanofmow 25/Aug/62 AltLd

Pat Higson

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