Restricted Access
While located on private land, the landowner is welcoming to climbers as long as its small numbers using the venue, dogs strictly under control and on a leash at all times and no litter or damage caused to boundaries. Please ask permission from the farmer at Coed Mawr Farm especially during lambing season.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction for nesting Ravens and Kestrels apply to the whole of the left hand (Cheshire Cat) buttress only.
35m, 2 pitches.
The obvious trad traverse line starting at about 2/3 up the descent gully right of Enterprise Allowance. A situ access rope protects the access and provides a belay.
1. 5b 20m A tricky move down gains excellent, easier climbing leftwards with excellent protection. A black thread and peg mark the crux (these are on "Boss Talkers"). Thinner moves left regain better holds and the break continues left to a peg and nut belay beneath an orange, guano streaked wall.
2. 4c/5a 15m. Now follow the break up and right, in brilliant positions around a slightly hollow flake, and across a brilliant hanging slab. The slab can be crossed high or low, to a flake where the wall gets steeper. Continue right with excellent holds in an exposed position, finishing at the far right hand side of the crag, right at the top.
1. 5b 20m A tricky move down gains excellent, easier climbing leftwards with excellent protection. A black thread and peg mark the crux (these are on "Boss Talkers"). Thinner moves left regain better holds and the break continues left to a peg and nut belay beneath an orange, guano streaked wall.
2. 4c/5a 15m. Now follow the break up and right, in brilliant positions around a slightly hollow flake, and across a brilliant hanging slab. The slab can be crossed high or low, to a flake where the wall gets steeper. Continue right with excellent holds in an exposed position, finishing at the far right hand side of the crag, right at the top.
Andy Taylor and Sam Hawkins 12/Jun/2022.
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Route of Interest
Herford's Crack
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet))