Rockfax Description
A mighty chimney with moves to match, it can feel anywhere between HVS and E3 depending of your chimneying abilities and the number of massive cams you own!
1) 35m. As for P1 of Poor Man's Peuterey, then continue straight up and left to a tree below the slot.
2) 5b, 18m. Get yourself into the chimney and use any means you can to get to the top. Breaststroke seems to work best. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch, Ultimate HVS ticklist, UK road to wide crack mastery, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

rachelpearce01 28/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Pretty uncomfortable

with George sanderson, Ben Ryle
George_Surf 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

With Ben Ryle, i led to the tree below the main pitch. Ben led the chimney. Pretty awkward, a bit bold but not too bad, big dragon was useful. Not the best route to do the day after my 30th party!? pretty amusing though

BenRyle 28/Aug/17 AltLd
with Rachel, George S
Matt Amos 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Why Dex thought this was a good idea I will never know, but he seemed to have fun, at least after he'd finished. It was hard hard work even on second, so utter respect to dex who chose this to be his first chimney.

Dexter JW 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S

First chimney experience. Thought I was going to die in there or worst, on the bird poo covered belay ledge below via the loose spiky block. Chose 'fight' and learnt some crucial techniques on route. Every inch was a mile. No bailing once committed. Wearing a helmet was an awful idea. Big cams would have been helpful. Hardest i've worked. Overall fun, but pleased I got it clean and don't need to return for closure.

JRJones 12/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with rowan
jesse.stuck ?/Feb/17 2nd β
Hidden ??/2017 -
JoeCoxson 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S

This route seriously made me consider selling my rack and taking up golf. When the guidebook says massive cams, it means bigger than your average dragon blue, so I had the pleasure of zero protection from the bottom of the chimney. Never again.

Hidden 04/Dec/16 2nd O/S
Wendy Watthews 04/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Glad it was not my lead. Joe accidentaly knocked off the loose block onto my leg as he was starting. Jake turned out to be a fast swimmer.

Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead dnf
Stroppy 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Hard work, but not desperate. Size 6 Camalot also provided a fair amount of comfort.

Jake Young 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

solo'd first pitch, found it a lot of effort. need to work on my swimming teckers. spent most of the time using tiny edges in the crack.

Pete_Frost 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S

*Beware of loose blocks just below the chimney on the main pitch* Without a size 6 Camalot to push ahead of you, this would be terrifying. It's still hard work with one though, but there are face holds inside this squeeze chimney which help reduce the effort. This route seems to be easier for the smaller climber. Great lead Blake!

with Blake
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead
Flavio 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S

What a beauty!

w-watson 11/Sep/16 AltLd
emgroves 01/Jul/16 -
crag_monster ?/Jun/16 AltLd
tyho 28/May/16 AltLd dnf

I attempted to lead P2. Stop calling this a chimney, it is a bird shit filled offset off width with no gear.

with Josephine Hicks
Sardien 28/Feb/16 AltLd rpt

Started leading the main pitch but passed on to Andy after an hour of elvis leg and sliding back down the same 2 feet of wall again and again. Once i got the right angle in which to get my knees stuck and took off my helmet it went on a second. Perfect hangover cure and great fun outing.

with Wraith, Andy Scott
Dan Geh 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Horrendous! Some very loose blocks at the start of the chimney.

with Joe Seymour
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
JRJones 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Chris took Chimney. not too bad on second. almost impossible to fall out of.

with chris
Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
caradoc 18/Apr/15 AltLd dnf

Normally I don't log DNF but this one stands out in the memory. Despite making virtually no movement I was pumped and exhausted after six or so metres. I became wedged and unable to turn my head(might be easier with no helmet) and curiously despite being unable to move I felt I could fall out of the chimney at any moment. I might go back for round two, not sure if it's worth it.

with Matt H.
UncleMephisto 17/Jan/15 AltLd dnf

Next level suffering. Being run over by a bus would be more pleasant. A sacrificial nut two was left to appease the spirit of Whillans, anyone who likes a good grovel is welcome to it.

with Vasco Bull
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
w-watson 07/Sep/14 AltLd
JHC 23/Aug/14 -
MichaelGallimore 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Rob P1, me P2. Interesting climbing up to the chimney, and a challenging shimmy up thereafter. I really enjoyed this, only took small cams, got stuck in and hoped for gear at the top. It felt like a stiff VS, but I have done a lot of this type of chimney and am quite small which makes a difference.

with Rob
The Grist 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

I literally puked on top of this route. Never again unless I take a size 6 cam. But memorable.

with Tom Doldon
highclimber 15/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

virtually unprotectable I'll be back armed with a big cam. Beware of the loose blocks below the chimney.

Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Bill Preston
mike mo ??/2014 -
Michael Allday 23/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC 27/Apr/13 Lead
with Rupert Fleming
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 30/Mar/13 2nd

Probably no harder than 4c but thats 4c every time you move a limbe:-) was awsome to second this

tim newton 12/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with ken, stuart lade
Hidden 12/Mar/13 2nd
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
masa-alpin 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Lee started for Pear Tree Variation, but decided not to do, because it was overgrown. I took over and did this route. I struggled a lot (and appreciated immensely Friends 5&6) but the route was absolutely fantastic!

with Lee P
Hidden ??/2012 -
mattorford 15/Oct/11 AltLd

lead 1st pitch,. had to back off 2nd

givemetea 22/Jul/11 2nd O/S

omg! fun to watch (i nearly wet myself watching Vince lead this one!), not quite so much fun to climb!

with Vince
3 Names 22/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Roz lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2

Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
Michael Allday ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

no cams so soloed the last pitch

with rodney greenfield
victim of mathematics 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S

The first pitch is way, way longer than the 80ft given in the definitive guide! The second pitch is brilliant, in an ungradeable horrorshow kind of a way. Would probably get HVDiff in the Peak District...

with Tony
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ed Causton ??/2010 Lead O/S
soph ??/2010 Lead
soph ??/2010 Lead
Derek Ryden 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter Hill
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
sgl 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Mallard
Hidden 17/Sep/08 Lead
dan gibson 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with sam read
Mike Goldthorp 31/May/08 Lead O/S

The route description in North Wales rock is spot on! Great fun

with Sam Jones, Tom Barton
Hidden 09/Feb/08 2nd
Sgt. Vest 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with james andy
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Andy Campbell ?/May/05 2nd
with Sim
John Kettle ??/2003 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave 02/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Chris Bird
Hidden 29/Jan/98 AltLd
Ched ??/1995 -
steve taylor ??/1994 -
Hidden 18/Jul/92 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
uphillnow ??/1988 2nd

Glad I seconded

with charlie french
Melok ??/1984 -
mitch1960 ??/1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
ewar woowar ??/1980 Lead
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 13/Feb/77 Lead
Falko 22/Mar/75 Lead O/S
with Al W.
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
mikej 12/Mar/67 Lead
with Keith Gregson
Hidden 17/Jul/66 AltLd
36 users have this on their wishlist
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set