Restricted Access

While located on private land, the landowner is welcoming to climbers as long as its small numbers using the venue, dogs strictly under control and on a leash at all times and no litter or damage caused to boundaries.  Please ask permission from the farmer at Coed Mawr Farm especially during lambing season. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction for nesting Ravens and Kestrels apply to the whole of the left hand (Cheshire Cat) buttress only. 
28m. A good line between Hustlers, Beats and Others and John Damocleese. Good featured rock throughout with a bold but steady middle section.

Start 2m right of the crack of Noble Horse/Hustlers at an obvious good diagonal foothold a metre up the blankish wall. A block in the grass can be used propped up against the wall if you can’t reach the first good holds.
Pull steeply up to a peg under the bulge at 5m. Over this to a thread and other good gear. Follow the cracks up and right to good pockets a couple of metres left of the obvious peg on JD. Then more boldly up the wall just right of the prominent heather patch via a lovely right facing pancake flake to the break. Finish straight up the juggy bulge to finish as for Hustlers.

Tim Neill, Keith Ball 21/Mar/2021.


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Logged Ascents

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 10
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dinorwig Unconquerable

Grade: E3 5c ***
(The Lost World/Heaven Walls)

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