UKC

Rockfax Description
A great route that picks its way up the nose of the crag.
1) 4a, 12m. Start at the toe of the rib, climb the short steep wall and move right to a block/tree belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb left onto a small pinnacle and then move up to the top of the larger pinnacle. Move right to below a steep groove and swing out right across the wall. Then move more easily up to the slab and follow it to a grassy ledge.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb the slab to a groove in the arete. Follow the groove to a short steep crack which leads onto a ledge. Move to the right-hand end of the ledge and up to the slab which leads to another ledge and belay.
4) 12m. Climb the right-hand groove to easier ground. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , Colin Kirkus' routes

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User Date Notes
pancakeandchips 30 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The description here appears to be for Kirkus Direct, not Kirkus' Climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The description here appears to be for Kirkus Direct, not Kirkus' Climb.
climbingrev 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First few steep moves are brilliant but unprotected. Steep groove on P3 again really good but best to protect well before heading up it.
Show beta
βeta: First few steep moves are brilliant but unprotected. Steep groove on P3 again really good but best to protect well before heading up it.

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns)

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 24
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Poor Man's Peuterey

Grade: S 4a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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