UKC

66m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Pleasant open and easy climbing, although gear can be a little tricky to arrange. Start in a bay below a massive pinnacle.
1) 20m. Climb up a wide crack to a ledge on the rib. Carry on up the rib past several small ledges to a big ledge and belay.
2) 20m. Move left and onto a flake then take the crack above, veering left into a scoop at its top. Climb a small groove to below a steepening then up the massive jugs on the right before teetering back left to a ledge. Belay off large gear and a root.
3) 20m. Follow the groove then move left onto a slab. At the top of a broken pillar, move right onto the slab and make thin and technical moves up this to another large ledge below a crack.
4) 20m. Ascend the short but difficult crack, and then swarm up the slab above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Up large slab in centre of SE face

a j j moulam,j a f watson,r g hargreaves 05/Apr/1953.

Ticklists

UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stacy Hackner 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: How is this a VDiff??? The final pitch (2 pitches??) is a quartzite slab with absolutely no gear. Pocket holds and no cracks. The route is a bit faffy and difficult to follow, but ok gear until you pass the root belay. After that, basically nada. We had to call our friends already at the top and get them to lower a top rope. That was definitely the more fun option (we could've abbed off from the previous belay station at the tree), and we were laughing til we almost wet ourselves at the predicament. While awaiting rescue we decided to politely coil our rope, and ended up simulclimbing a top rope - a hilarious end to an extremely faffy route. Note that a whistle blown at the second belay area will not be heard on the top. But there is 4G.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How is this a VDiff??? The final pitch (2 pitches??) is a quartzite slab with absolutely no gear. Pocket holds and no cracks. The route is a bit faffy and difficult to follow, but ok gear until you pass the root belay. After that, basically nada. We had to call our friends already at the top and get them to lower a top rope. That was definitely the more fun option (we could've abbed off from the previous belay station at the tree), and we were laughing til we almost wet ourselves at the predicament. While awaiting rescue we decided to politely coil our rope, and ended up simulclimbing a top rope - a hilarious end to an extremely faffy route. Note that a whistle blown at the second belay area will not be heard on the top. But there is 4G.
EllenHolmes 18 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lead the second pitch and made an absolute pigs ear of it. Traversed left too early rather than going up the scoop. Gear and ropes everywhere. Set up a belay to the left of the tree then abbed of the big boulder next to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead the second pitch and made an absolute pigs ear of it. Traversed left too early rather than going up the scoop. Gear and ropes everywhere. Set up a belay to the left of the tree then abbed of the big boulder next to it.

Logged Ascents

1166 users have logged this
62 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 95
Votes cast 87
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Red Wall and Longland's Continuation

Grade: VD ***
(Y Lliwedd)
Loading Notifications...