UKC

Rockfax Description
A nice route with a fine finish up a rib. Start just left of the Slick pillar at a worn flat area. Often only the first two pitches are done to the tree, abseiling off from here.
1) 20m. Climb to the slab, then take the small groove exiting right onto a rib. Follow this to a groove which leads to a ledge.
2) 18m. Go up to a large flake. Move up again - thread on the left - to a ledge. Move up a ramp on the left and take good holds up a steeper wall to another small ledge. Above is a final wall, move up this past a good wire to belay on the tree.
3) 4a, 20m. Cross the slab to the corner and climb a steep crack on the right to a pinnacle.
4) 4a, 12m. Climb up behind the pinnacle then the rib above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
very grippy, even when wet

Ticklists

No you're a punter , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Offwidth 2 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Given the rather wandering nature of pitch 3 it might be best for Severe leaders to split it, with a belay in the 'cave' in the corner, for easier ropework on the awkward 4a crack just above (the short pitch remaining could easily be combined with pitch 4). It's also much less intimidating on pitch 3 to follow an obvious graduually rising traverse near the base of the slab into the corner.
Show beta
βeta: Given the rather wandering nature of pitch 3 it might be best for Severe leaders to split it, with a belay in the 'cave' in the corner, for easier ropework on the awkward 4a crack just above (the short pitch remaining could easily be combined with pitch 4). It's also much less intimidating on pitch 3 to follow an obvious graduually rising traverse near the base of the slab into the corner.
Howard J 15 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good value for the grade! Very run out on the slabs, and the crack and pinnacle are tricky.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good value for the grade! Very run out on the slabs, and the crack and pinnacle are tricky.

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns)

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 41
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crackstone Rib

Grade: S 4a ***
(Carreg Wastad)

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