Mark Holbrook 07/Nov/2021.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Pottsy84 | 19 Apr |
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βeta: 6 bolts in the first third very generous. 5 across the second two thirds make it a little spicier, mainly on the crux long reach on thin feet immediately before mantling at half height, though some may also not like the top crack; both fairly well above gear. It's not ridiculous, just not as friendly as much of Portland. The clip made just before mantling is a strong position - moving the bolt down and left a little so it can be made before leaving the last decent foothold would be friendlier. If you're at your limit, you won't like it (after getting in a bit of a mess trying to clip it on the redpoint I skipped it and ran out to the next one - would have been a long whip). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 6 bolts in the first third very generous. 5 across the second two thirds make it a little spicier, mainly on the crux long reach on thin feet immediately before mantling at half height, though some may also not like the top crack; both fairly well above gear. It's not ridiculous, just not as friendly as much of Portland. The clip made just before mantling is a strong position - moving the bolt down and left a little so it can be made before leaving the last decent foothold would be friendlier. If you're at your limit, you won't like it (after getting in a bit of a mess trying to clip it on the redpoint I skipped it and ran out to the next one - would have been a long whip). |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)