70m, 3 pitches. This route, for a long time, the only one on the main face proper, climbs an impressive dark steep corner with excellent jamming and bridging on the left side (east) of a prominent bay in the middle of the North facing cliff. The start is reached by a traverse right from the foot of Dark Angel, which is best done in boots, and the boots then thrown down to the track underneath (or carried to the top !!). The traverse is airy but there is ample protection and the moves are no more that V Diff. The first two pitches can be combined, but you will loose contact with your second, and there is the slight possibility of the rope getting jammed in a corner.
1. 25m. Climb the arete to the left of the corner until you are forced to escape to the slab on the right, which is climbed easily until the corner steepens. Some delicate bridging and/or lay-backing (crux) brings you to the base of an overhang. Move left onto the wall and climb to gain the corner above. Belay.
2. 15m. Climb easily up the corner and gain a grassy recess and belay. (It might be advisable to belay to the left in the recess out of the direct line of the final pitch due to some potentially loose rock.
3. 30m. Climb the steep crack above with the aid of some huge jugs to a small terrace, continue up above this and follow the continuing crack to the top. The last section is impending but well protected.

J Bergin, M Keenleyside 20/Aug/1991.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

There are no ascents logged for this climb.