70m, 2 pitches.
This starts in the corner at the left-hand side of Grey Hotel Buttress, just right of a deep wet cave. A good view of the route is to be had whilst abseiling Atom Ant wall.
1. 48m Climb the initial awkward corner [small friends] and onto slab at right. Find some protection for the blank vertical/bulging section which leads to better holds and then to ledge. Go left around the arête into the upper corner which has good protection [small wires]. Exiting corner onto arête at ‘damocles’ block is also hard. Continue to belay at large triangular block.
2. 20m Easy climbing to top. Belay at top of Grey Hotel.
1. 48m Climb the initial awkward corner [small friends] and onto slab at right. Find some protection for the blank vertical/bulging section which leads to better holds and then to ledge. Go left around the arête into the upper corner which has good protection [small wires]. Exiting corner onto arête at ‘damocles’ block is also hard. Continue to belay at large triangular block.
2. 20m Easy climbing to top. Belay at top of Grey Hotel.
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 17/Aug/2009.
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