85m, 3 pitches.
This climb takes the grey face/tower situated in the deep gully to the right of Crooked Smile. The initial wall faces out towards the lake and is about 10 m. across. Recommend combining pitches 1&2. Start - At centre of face.
(1) 25 m. Climb up diagonally rightwards to top of choss. Gain a horizontal break above with a vertical crack at its left-hand side. Climb up strenuously just right of the crack, making hard moves to gain a small resting ledge near the right-hand arete. Climb the face to the left to gain the left-hand crack again and follow this up until level with a large sloping ledge on the right. Traverse right to gain this and belay.
(2) 20 m. Climb the overhanging corner above, past a ledge on the left-hand wall, to exit onto a large grassy ledge. (From here it is possible to scramble up to the right onto the Birdman ledge).
(3) 40m. Climb the pleasant corner at the back of the ledge into overhanging territory until it is possible to gain a second non-overhanging corner to the right. Follow up the face of the ramp with the off-width crack on the left (Small wires in the left-hand wall). The crux is at 3/4 height. Respect the precarious - looking block at the top.
(1) 25 m. Climb up diagonally rightwards to top of choss. Gain a horizontal break above with a vertical crack at its left-hand side. Climb up strenuously just right of the crack, making hard moves to gain a small resting ledge near the right-hand arete. Climb the face to the left to gain the left-hand crack again and follow this up until level with a large sloping ledge on the right. Traverse right to gain this and belay.
(2) 20 m. Climb the overhanging corner above, past a ledge on the left-hand wall, to exit onto a large grassy ledge. (From here it is possible to scramble up to the right onto the Birdman ledge).
(3) 40m. Climb the pleasant corner at the back of the ledge into overhanging territory until it is possible to gain a second non-overhanging corner to the right. Follow up the face of the ramp with the off-width crack on the left (Small wires in the left-hand wall). The crux is at 3/4 height. Respect the precarious - looking block at the top.
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, J. Bergin 1987.
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Route of Interest
Controlled Burning
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Coumshingaun)