UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is not mapped as open country under CRoW, something that may surprise anyone who has climbed there. It is, however, in the ownership of the National Trust and access made available by the trust. BMC is taking up the CRoW mapping issue with Natural England. Please be aware peregrine have nested at the crag. If you observe them during the Spring months, please do not disturb them during this sensitive period - give the nest site a wide berth.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine nest in the Jezebel  area.

Best advice is to avoid crag. Certainly avoid the specified routes, and those around them. But if you are there look out for behaviour including:

  • Birds flying in front of the crag repeatedly with persistent calling
  • Any aggressive behaviour
  • Repeated bird activity in the same area

If this behaviour is observed, please withdraw as quickly as possible to avoid the chicks or eggs becoming chilled causing them to perish.

It is a criminal offense to intentionally or recklessly kill, injure or take a Peregrine.

Rockfax Description
14m. One of the classics of the crag with spectacular and photogenic positions. Start on the left (or by climbing over the pinnacle) and tackle the roof at the top of the initial groove - direct is thuggy, on the right is technical. The exposed face above gives a superb finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , County Classics 24hr Challenge , County Classics Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Frost_Ascent 22 May Show βeta
βeta: Jackdaws nesting in this currently.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Jackdaws nesting in this currently.
PappaDaq 1 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Avoid squishing the quail’s nest in one of the cracks on your way up!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Avoid squishing the quail’s nest in one of the cracks on your way up!
Sam Watchorn 28 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route in high winds, wish it could have gone on longer
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route in high winds, wish it could have gone on longer
allmag 28 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Well that's spoilt it.
Show beta
βeta: Well that's spoilt it.
Mike-W-99 30 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Those with long arms will discover an enormous jug in the crux crack!
Show beta
βeta: Those with long arms will discover an enormous jug in the crux crack!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 78
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Marcher Lord

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Berryhill)

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