UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is not mapped as open country under CRoW, something that may surprise anyone who has climbed there. It is, however, in the ownership of the National Trust and access made available by the trust. BMC is taking up the CRoW mapping issue with Natural England. Please be aware peregrine have nested at the crag. If you observe them during the Spring months, please do not disturb them during this sensitive period - give the nest site a wide berth.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine nest found next to Sausage Juice on 18/5/2024.

Best advice is to avoid crag. Certainly avoid the specified routes, and those around them. But if you are there look out for behaviour including:

  • Birds flying in front of the crag repeatedly with persistent calling
  • Any aggressive behaviour
  • Repeated bird activity in the same area

If this behaviour is observed, please withdraw as quickly as possible to avoid the chicks or eggs becoming chilled causing them to perish.

It is a criminal offense to intentionally or recklessly kill, injure or take a Peregrine.

To the right of Notched Buttress is the Smooth Bastion Buttress. Originally an aid route it now offers one of the best extremes on the crag (if you can find it).
The corner on the right of the buttress is climbed and the overhang crossed, moving right to a ledge. Move left and use a flake to make a long reach into the upper groove, climb this on good holds to the top.

John Earl, Bob Hutchinson 1976.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Overhanging Crack

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Bowden Doors)

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