Rockfax Description
An old classic up a series of slabs, corners and overhangs. Pitches 1 and 2 are easily linked together.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb easily to a ledge. Move right along the ledge to its end before making bold moves up the wall to a peg. Traverse thinly right (peg) to eventually make a step down onto a ramp. Take the ramp to the overhang and stance.
2) 5b, 14m. This pitch has some poor rock. Traverse right into a hanging corner and climb strenuously up it to a thread. Move out right and up to a tree. Above is another tree and a good stance.
3) 5a, 10m. Traverse left with difficulty before stepping down left on to a tiny exposed ledge. Finish up the juggy wall. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, P.Stott 13.10.80 13/Oct/1980.

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100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Eglwseg E2's , 2 and 3 star routes in Clwyd

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